'99 CBR 600 f4- starting problems
#1
'99 CBR 600 f4- starting problems
I just bought a 99 CBR 600 f4 when I picked out up the bike started and ran fine everyone that day and the next morning when I got off work and ride the bike home with no issues. I left the bike sitting for two days and when I went to start it up to go to work it would not start. The neutral light and odometer came on and the horn worked but the bike would not even try to start no clicking or anything. It would not push start either. I hooked the bike up to my car battery with the car off and the bike started right up and stayed running even after disconnecting the jumper cables. I let it run for a little while and then shut it off and tried to start it again and I got nothing. Does this sound more like the battery is bad or the rectifier possibly? Is there anyway to tell for sure? My bushy is going to help me check it with a meter later today but any other suggestions our advice is greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
#3
As of right now I am waiting on the rectifier I ordered since it still had the original one and everything I read said that those had a reputation for going bad. I ordered the electrosport rectifier for it and I am going to take and have the battery tested if its no good then I an going to replace that as well. Hopefully that will fix the problem if not the next step will be to check the alternator.
Where could I find the manual to download it on my phone its my only internet source?
Where could I find the manual to download it on my phone its my only internet source?
#4
Downloads | Two Broke Blokes Racing
A lot of people recommend replacing the alternator alongside the r/r, however that's not always monetarily feasable. If your r/r is still acting up and you can wait a bit mine is running strong but I'm upgrading to a MOSFET r/r.
A lot of people recommend replacing the alternator alongside the r/r, however that's not always monetarily feasable. If your r/r is still acting up and you can wait a bit mine is running strong but I'm upgrading to a MOSFET r/r.
#5
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#7
where would I order the rectifier from, I am having the same issues. The bike starts up on the first shot when I boost the battery, but every day I have to boost it.
I have gotten the battery tested and it is working fine.
And I have rode the bike for a couple of hrs, and it starts right up.
I have gotten the battery tested and it is working fine.
And I have rode the bike for a couple of hrs, and it starts right up.
#8
where would I order the rectifier from, I am having the same issues. The bike starts up on the first shot when I boost the battery, but every day I have to boost it.
I have gotten the battery tested and it is working fine.
And I have rode the bike for a couple of hrs, and it starts right up.
I have gotten the battery tested and it is working fine.
And I have rode the bike for a couple of hrs, and it starts right up.
Battery only should be better than 12.5v DC
If you are needing to boost it every day then i would question the battery test that was done. Try starting the bike after your days riding - if it still struggles it may be the charging system.
Battery when engine running at or above 2000rpm should be 14.5v DC
Standard r/r dont seem to kick in untill 1500rpm or higher ( this is one of the major advantages of a MOSFET r/r - it charges at idle )
Low voltage here could indicate faulty r/r or generator.
To isolate the generator and test it.
Unplug the connector to the r/r - identify the three yellow wires from the generator - You should get around 26v AC between any two of the yellow wires with the engine running at 2000rpm or more.
#10
They were created because fuel injected engines use much more power than a carb engine so a total loss system was becoming unreliable.
Some have an extra wire that is voltage sensing and are electromagnetic rather than permanent magnetic. These switching versions consume almost no power until they are needed and then only just provide enough power for the engine electrics.
In general they are not suited for a road bike.