after dealing with and fixing other electrical problems with my '97 cbr600f3 now my neutral lite comes on every time I pull the clutch lever in. seems real strange to me. The instructions in the manual are very confusing as to how to test the clutch diode ,I not sure were its coming from, any body have any idea's I'd much appreciate it. thanks in advance. JEFF-

 

Assuming you have found the diode and removed it, testing is pretty straightforward. Most meters have a diode test function, indicated by a diode symbol on the meter face (find and check your meter manual if uncertain).

With the meter set to the diode test:

1. Put the positive lead on 'B' and the negative lead on A. Meter should give a 'OL' or out-of-range indication (check meter manual to see what your meter indicates when on diode test), meaning that no current can flow that direction.

2. Move negative to 'C'. Should read same as above.

3. Move negative to 'B' and positive to 'A'. Meter should now indicate a small voltage (should be between 0.45V and 0.65V). That's the voltage needed to overcome the P-N depletion layer in the diode. Don't sweat the full meaning of that...simply know that in a functional diode, a small bit of voltage is necessary to force the diode into a conduction mode.

4. Leave negative on 'B' and move positive to 'C'. Again, you should read about the same small voltage as in test #3 above.

A failure of any one of these tests mean the diode should be replaced. I might also mention that this test is not 100% accurate. A diode can have a myriad of failure modes depending on temperature, voltage, current , humidity, and mechanical vibration (or none of the above - some days it might work and others not, for no discernible reason). So if the outcome here is questionable in any way, replace the bloody diode. It's cheap.

 

Thanks Echo, I was using the continuity setting, As per the manual,the + and - didn't make any sense to me because The + and - on my meter read the same thing either way I did it. Pos to Neg and Neg to Pos was the same obviously. Also I would just change it out for the hell of it But in the Honda parts manual,it shows it as part of the harness. Any suggestions as to were I can find one? .its easy to get to, just remove the rt. side louver panel and its right there ,taped into the harness.Kind of a freaky thing to happen. seems these bikes have way more crap on them than they should need. The Emissions alone is mind boggling, wish I could just tear it all out of there ,but then the bike wouldn't run. Thanks again for the advise .

 

The diode test is better...the continuity is simply designed to let you know if current can flow, using an audible tone for a 'go/no-go' indication. The diode test gives you more info.

At any rate, the neutral light coming on when you pull the clutch in is a red flag telling you that the diode assembly needs replacing. Not sure what you mean about 'part of the wire harness'. If you bought a whole wire harness, it would include that part, but it's also available as a stand-alone part (of course!) Looks to be Honda part #31700-196-000 (double-check that).

 

yea, checking it on the continuity setting just had me doing one thing then doing the same thing again only backwards.I previously had tried to test it because the bike was dead and I was looking at the possibility of it being one of the safety switches, clutch/side stand etc...Thanks for taking the time man, I really appreciate it. The only way I could get it through bike bandit (an appropriate name) on line was to get the harness, They didn't have it listed separately . I,ll check out that # and get it on line. the local bike dealers are thieves.Although Honda parts are crazy expensive anyway. I'll test it again first. Thanks again my friend.