^^

Oh man!

 

Stater fluid with an upper cylindar lubricant (most have this) should not really hurt the engine.

 

I know the F4 ram air is different than the F3 but read this thread. It's only a few slots down but I'll put in the link. The simptoms are kinda similar.

https://cbrforum.com/m_340310/tm.htm

 

Thanks for all input! Its greatly appreciated. Still haven't figured out what the problem is, but he got another fuel pump & he's going to install it sometime soon. I'll let you all know if the fuel pump solves the mystery.

 

i am the guy who has the problem with the bike. i have installed the fuel pump and had no change. it will still run all day until it is under load at around 60mph. it will cruise around at low speeds and hit 75 for a short period but will die if stay at 60mph or more.(at 60 it will just bog a bit and the throttle wont respond. once the clutch is pulled in, it dies.). It will fire right back up and run strong after a minute or so).
1. i have checked everything fuel related (carbs are synced, fuel lines & filter clean/new, pump is new, tank is feeding fuel great...i dont think this is the problem)
2. i thought it could be vacume related so i replaced the PAIR valve (air injection solednoid valve) and i made sure the tubes feeding the valve are clean and in place.
3. the rectifier (volt regulator) tested just fine (i even replaced to make sure)

i need help!!!
electrical maybe?
small exaused leak at the header maybe? (dont think that would matter anyway)
Maybe its something with the ECM or a RELAY or something?
I have a installed a few things worth mentioning: full exhaust &ignition advancer (non-adjustable type) High flow K&N air filter & -1 sprocket in front (not that that will cause the problem)

 

The operative words being "should" and "not". Fact is it "can" and "will" hurtthe engine....2-strokes seem to be fine with it but I still don't recommend it.

Ether (starting fluid)is bad regardless of how much "lubricant" is mixed in.

It strips the oil from the valve stems, cylinder wall and causes damage to the valve seals and other top-end components. I guarantee 100% this can and will happen if it's used too much or too often.

The lubricants used with the Ether are not enough to maintain proper lubrication for the top end and the words "with upper cylinder lubricant" is nothing more than a gimmick phraseto reel in customers that are trying to be mechanics.

To each their own but I firmly believe that if an engine doesn't run using its recommended fuel then something else is not right. Forcing an engine to start or run on Ether does nothing other than make an engine run on a combustable that it was not designed for.

I mean hell, why not just throw a coupla moth ***** in the gas tank and let 'er rip!

Sorry for the minor rant but Ether is bad and that's a fact.

frankmackie- Did you check the float heights per the jet kit specs?

You may also have an intake leak somewhere which is leaning the bike out under loads. What Isuggest is get theengine to normal idle speed,get your WD-40 (with the redsuper straw attatched)and lightly spray around the one carb boot (on the engine side) at a time. Any increase inidle speed tellsyou there's a vacuum leak at that boot. Don't get too excited just yet as you have to check this forthe rest of thecylinders if there are any remaining.

If you have an extra key put it in the fuel cap lock, when you see your issue at speeds SAFELY open the fuel cap and see what happens. If the engine springs back to life then it's the fuel cap vent (or did we already go over this?? I don't remember.)


I'm putting my money on afuel related issue rather than electrical (based on descriptions posted here).

Another thing you may want to try (if you haven't already) iswhen you have the bogging occur and pull the clutch in, try to fire it up right away while you're still moving. If it fires up then I'm putting even more of my money on a fuel issue.

 

Thank you so much for the help!
to answer some questions:
1. i dont really use/rely on starter fluid to start it up.. it doesnt really help anyway.
2. i have a keyless gas cap. when it starts to bog down, &i can tell it wants to shut down, it will stay alive briefly as long as its in gear. once the clutch is pulled in... it dies... 'thump'! dead. i have been coasting in nuetral at 40mph, and tried restarting while coasting (with open gas cap & closed) and it just turns and turns.
(it sputters as if too lean or too rich)
3. the fuel pump replacement was done to no avail. (i didnt think this was the problem, in my experience, pumps (at least on cars)dont slowly fail... they usually die with little to no warning.
4. I found a thread (linked on this page) that pointed me to the Air Solenoid Valve and fresh air needed to feed the Carb Barrels themselves. In short, the vacume tube that feeds this gives an equal amount of air in the barrels as the airbox so the mixture is even with the air pressure from the ram air ducts. The air that supplies this valve comes from a tube at the front of the bike near theair ducts.... mine was not installed because the aftermarket fairings didnt have the appropriate spot to mount them. (also, our other f4 left them out and his works fine... (mind you, no full exhuast or high flow air flilter on it)). i went ahead and modded my fairing and intalled the tubes with some success... it now only does this if i sustain high a speed of 60mph or more (it will hit 70 briefly but will die if i dont let off the throttle).

Update: i replaced this valve without perfroming the appropriate test so see if it was faulty (the test involves blowing in the intake hole with the ignition in off position and then in on position... air SHOULD pass through different hoses in each case. IT FAILED THE TEST WITH BOTH MY OLD & MY NEW (used)SOLENOID VALVE.... i.e. It is starved for air in the barrels.

I think this is my issue and am replacing the valve again (this time i will perform the test on the used one i have coming... and will buy new if that one fails).

THANKS AGAIN TO ALL FOR THE SUGGESTIONS! I FEEL I AM GETTING CLOSE AND WILL KEEP YOU POSTED> KEEP THE IDEAS COMING! THIS MAY STILL NOT FIX THE ISSUE! SPECIAL THANKS TO FORUM MEMBERS:

JACK RIDDLEY
BERGS
& DUFFERMAN

 

I freaking wrote out a novel and the site didn't post it when I clicked ok. Freakin computers. Here are the key points I wrote out.

There might more than one problem here.

I still think its the breather tubes. Same symptoms just at higher speeds right? Physics are the same.

The air solenoid when faulty stays in the open position.

The air solenoid is controlled by a relay. Ohm it out per wiring diagram in manual.

Still think it's the hoses. Not the solenoid but you are there and I am not.

Keep posting. Good or bad news to help other riders out.

JackRiddley/Ender
Rival Riderz
Oceanside, CA

 

LOL

I love it when that happens!


<lurking>

 

okay. i have checked and re-checked the functionality of the air solenoid valve (using the test given to me by the manual) and performed the same test to the working F4 in the garage. It turns out that the valve is working fine. there is a substantial resistence the input gives but is varied (that is, the more air pressure, the more open the valve gets... it just seemed like too much resistence to me when i ran the tests... the other bike is the same though). WHERE IS THAT DYNOMITE? I think its time for my bike to have an accident.

i am thinking that the floats are faulty in some way... when it went down, it is possible that one (or more) were frozen in the up/open position and are letting in too much gas in but am not too sure. or maybe closed, i dunno. it seems to have symptoms ofbeingflooded with too much gas when it dies.i cant think of a way to test them.

it looks like i am going to have to pull off the carb assembly and rebuild the floats to be sure.

what do you think?