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2007 CBR1k Died, please help

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Old Mar 29, 2021 | 09:15 PM
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Default 2007 CBR1k Died, please help

Hello, sorry for the long read, but I want people to know what I have tried so far.

I have an 07 CBR1000. A month ago, it died while I was riding it. Gauge cluster was still on and the red indicator light came on, but the engine cut out. Cranked, but would not start. When cycling the key, the fuel pump would not cycle as usual.

First thought was pump went out. I got my bike back to the auto shop I work at, and put power directly to the fuel pump with a power probe. The pump worked. Tried cranking the engine while manually putting power to the pump, in case a wire was bad. Still nothing.

Next step was checking injector signal with a Noid light kit. Injectors weren't getting signal when cranking the engine over. At this point, I suspected the ECU. That's an easy enough fix, so I ordered a used one off ebay. A few days later, I got the replacement ECU. First I tried starting my bike before swapping ECU's and it wouldn't go. Plugged the replacement in and the bike started right up. I don't know why, but out of curiosity, I swapped the original ECU back in, and the bike also started fine. I've rode it for a few weeks now without issue, but it died again today while moving. Once I got it back home, I swapped the ebay ECU back in, and it still wouldn't start. Haven't re-tested injector signal yet with a light, but the fuel pump does not cycle with either ECU.

Unless I'm wrong, there's no way to "scan" 07's for codes if it's a sensor or something. I have heard of some bikes using an indicator light to flash in blips to tell you the code it is setting. That would be nice. I have two complete engines for CBR1000's in my garage right now. One is an 04, and the other is an 06. The 06 should be about the same, so I'm about ready to start swapping sensors over and "throwing parts at it" until the problem is solved. If I knew it was a specific sensor, I would just buy a new one.

Any advice for further diagnosis?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2021 | 10:28 PM
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Wiggle test would my next step. Check all the wires and connections in the harness plugs. Sounds like a burned connection to me.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2021 | 10:30 PM
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Thanks! I'll try that tomorrow
 
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Old Mar 30, 2021 | 05:57 AM
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Yes, I'd agree. Certainly sounds like an electrical connection. Beyond that, I'd be looking for switches or relays that aren't working right. The Engine Stop switch on the right hand control is a common one to go bad.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2021 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 74demon
Wiggle test would my next step. Check all the wires and connections in the harness plugs. Sounds like a burned connection to me.
Originally Posted by IDoDirt
Yes, I'd agree. Certainly sounds like an electrical connection. Beyond that, I'd be looking for switches or relays that aren't working right. The Engine Stop switch on the right hand control is a common one to go bad.
Thanks for the tips guys, it was the kill switch on the right handlebar! I checked the wiring diagram, and the kill switch is a "dead man switch" that cuts power to the fuel pump and injectors. After flipping the switch back and forth several times, I was able to get my bike to start. Flipping the switch while the bike is running kills the engine, but the gauge cluster stays on and the red indicator light comes on. When the switch is in the off position, the fuel pump will not prime when cycling the key.



I ordered a new OEM Honda switch for only $42 shipped. Temporarily, I took my switch casing apart and directly soldered the wires connected to the switch. I've rode my bike around all day, starting it 7 times today without problems.



Once again, thanks for the help!


 
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Old Mar 31, 2021 | 05:55 AM
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@adulbrich Well I'm glad we were able to help out. Soldering it together seems a bit on the harsh side. Typically a little fine sand paper on the bits inside to clean up the contacts and it's good to go. But, it works and that's the important thing.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2021 | 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by IDoDirt
@adulbrich Well I'm glad we were able to help out. Soldering it together seems a bit on the harsh side. Typically a little fine sand paper on the bits inside to clean up the contacts and it's good to go. But, it works and that's the important thing.
I missed an important meeting on campus because my bike died, and I really didn't want it to happen again. Soldered it to be sure it works until the new switch gets here, haha.
 
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Old Mar 31, 2021 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by adulbrich
I missed an important meeting on campus because my bike died, and I really didn't want it to happen again. Soldered it to be sure it works until the new switch gets here, haha.
LOL, I like the way you think... CYA ! Well here's to a good soldering job !
 
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Old Apr 1, 2021 | 05:13 AM
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Glad you got it sorted, this does seem to be a recurring problem on our bikes
 
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Old Apr 1, 2021 | 08:10 AM
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Yes it is. The Starter Switch, Engine Stop Switch, Headlight Switch, and the Turn Signal Switch. I think it is a compromise in design, function, reliability and cost (aren't most things). They work fine for several years if not a decade or so. Then they start to have issues. The nice thing is most can be taken apart with not too much effort and cleaned/lubed and they're good for a few more years.
 
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