Hello Everyone,

I just changed my fork seals and oil. I have a question with the settings. I'm looking just to go back to OEM settings, but I'm not sure where the lock screw should be. I put the unscrewed pre adjuster to the softness setting. The I have 4 rings showing at the top of the bolt. Now, does it matter if the lock nut screw is all the way at the bottom or should it be farther up? ( I just took this picture of the internet to show the screw). Any help is appreciated.

Aside from that, I noticed that where the bottom screw is that there is a leak without any pressure on there. I'm going to get a new copper washer and hope that fixes the problem. I went to the shop just to see how much it would cost for them to just fix it, not to deal with this anymore and they said $250 plus parts. I feel like that's way too much. I already have everything apart and the seals are done. The mechanic there said that copper washer shouldn't leak and that he has never replaced them. I know the repair manual says it should be. did anyone else experience this too?

 

at the bottom of the forks the hex screw? which you need a really long hex socket to fit inside in order to torque it down. i've never replaced the washer on that either.
if it even has a washer. i just changed my oil and no leaks. as for the top, stock preload is right on the 4th ring, but the springs are light so you may want to stiffen it.
you should of tightened the fork cap, to your dampening rod by putting a 14mm wrench i think its 14mm, on the nut, and i dunno what size on the top until its tight.
after you do that you screw your cap into the fork tube and torque it down to spec, making sure the o-ring is in place etc etc. there is a service manual around here somewhere you should check it out.

 

thanks for the reply. my washers came in and it stopped the leak. Now, im still trying to figure out the about the rebound adjuster. i didnt measure it before I took it off. I thought there would be a starting point. Anyway, I know that the manual says 1 3/4 turns from full hard, but that all depends on where on far you screw in the dampening rod and lock it with that nut right under the fork cap. If I screw in the adjuster rod all the way down I can only turn the screw less than half a turn. I know thats not right. If I raise the rod up and tighten the nut higher. then I turns it more then I can get turn it at least 4 times. So how do I ever know where full hard is?

 

Go to the sticky section on this forum and download the shop manual. It explains everything with pictures. Pictures make everything better.

 

I ended up going to the dealer and asking them. The shop manual does not have this info that I need. All the manual says is " Do not remove the rebound damping adjuster from the damper rod or fork damping force will be change." I looked at all of the tutorials online when I started changing the oil. I figured if I messed anything up I can always go back to OEM settings. The damper had threads on it with a lock nut and when it moves it changes the damping screw. I never took a measurement when I took it off so it off. The dealer didn't know either what the exact setting was. He had a different shop manual, which had more pictures, and didn't have this info either. He ended looking at another F4i to get it. I guess I know for the future to always write the down the settings before hand.

 

pictures is what i do.
lesson learned i guess, never take apart more than you need. and document your settings.
i didn't realize you took apart the damper rod, i've never done it myself but i imagine somewhere there is a guide considering people revalve them.