so i just left the dealership and was flabbergasted about the price they wanna charge me for a 16,000 mile tune up, which is nothing but replacing a few gaskets and adjusting the valves (if i am not mistaken). and ontopp of that they wanna keep my baby for a week... i was like wtf first you wanna charg eme close to 700 dollars to do this and you wanna keep my baby a week???? can anybody tell me what exactly is performed at this tune up and if its possible for someone like me, who has some mechanical experience, to do this? thanx for helpin

 

hell no dont let them keep it for a week

16K is a major maintenance so around 4-6hours of labor seems about right

300-500bux

 

i wasnt planning on it but from the looks of it i might have to or if i can find somebody around my are athat can do it for me for cheap..... ill probably do that

 

Just had mine done on my f4i and it was just under 310 with parts and tax. they said it was 3 hours labor. their labor rate was 65/hour. I'm in Nebraska not sure where you are.

 

should be between 300-500 bucks...with 500 on the high side. mine was around 320.

 

Biggest cost is checking valve clearances -- I say checking because unless you spend hours on end revving the **** outta your machine you most likely won't need extra shims. I've had over 30K miles on shim-under-bucket valves and still been .002 in spec. Most likely the 16K check-up will also include syncing the throttle bodies, changing the plugs and new oil and filter. On major maintenance milestones I like to lube up the chassis also(look in the manual for points of interest) and make sure major systems are torqued correctly. Taking an extra hour or two tweaking the rear will make it handle like a dream.

You can do any of this yourself -- but you gotta have the shop manual and an above average selection of tools. Only advantage of letting a shop do it is convenience -- turn your baby in and when you pick it up it's done. 90% of the time I'm sure it's even done correctly and they check everything they're supposed to. On the other hand, if you have average mechanical abilities (be honest with yourself on this one) then for $500 you can buy everything you need and have $$$ left over for other stuff. Time investment will be 4-8 hours depending on how in-depth you go. You also gotta have plenty of space to safely lay plastics and disassembled pieces. Nothing worse than saving a couple bucks but scratching a lower fairing or losing a valve-train bolt.

 

ya buy ur parts before hand so it will be cheaper

just check: http://local.yahoo.com/ and type in motorcycle service or dealers

 

At 16 K really if the bike has been well looked after you shouldn't need the valves shimming,
unless they are noisy []
if the oil & filter has been changed regular then the shouldn't be an issue
mine is a 1991 model with 37K + mls and on the original shims,

Plugs, Air filter, Fuel filter Fuel tank filter, & Carbs' Synching is all that really needs attention !!
the ignition dosent need to messed with either,

Oh forgot to mention it might need a CAM Chain & the dreaded CCT
hope this puts your mind at ease

 

well i do appreciate all the responses and i think that i will be able to do this all by myself cause im a big kid now lol anyways i wanted to know one more thing does andbody know how to bleed the clutch and brake fluids thats willing to teach me? my clutch fluid is black as night and its not a good thing but it is not showing any abnormal function... i wanted to do this last weekend but i kinda got fired so i had no money lol oh well ****e happens right? oh an one last thing: i have 17,000 on a stock clutch that has not been ridden that hard (honestly) and i wanted to get a concensus on how long yalls clutches lasted.... and if i waas gonna do this myself, how long, hard and expensive ( i know it doesnt sound right... lol) it would be to replace the clutch discs myself.

 

To answer the last question first i'm still on the original clutch on my CBR 600 FX (Uk verion of the F4) with 66.000 miles.

As to the replacement of your fluids you can either buy a cheap kit ( bit of hose with a non return valve attached) or just buy a bit of flexible tube and ensure that one end is in a bottle below some brake fluid in the bottom. attach the other end to the bleed nipple ( on the brake caliper) (don't know where the bleed nipple is for hydraulic clutches sorry).

Remove screws on Fluid resevoir ( on the handlebars) remove cap and inside cover.

unscrew bleed nipple just until you can squeeze the lever and get fluid out. IMPORTANT don't run the resevoir dry.

Top up fluid in the resevoir and continue process until clear fluid comes out of bleed nipple / tube.

Tighten bleed nipple

replace cover and cap.

Make sure you get no brake fluid on your paint work as it will eat it.