hey guys I am new to working on my bike meaning trying to do things myself, I have noticed a sludge sound coming from top front of engine and decided to take apart top layers I got to the filter cleaned it etc and it didn't help so today for first time since I notticed the noise went on a longer ride about half hour in bike felt really hot and uncomfortable so anyways I have now take apart the top engine
I will post a picture can someone please please tell me what to do the first and seccond piston on clutch side which also I notticed oil all over the area prior to taking this apart.
those 2 are not shut like the other 6
they are about quarter inch down and also all of them the piston ends have gummy black **** around the head. does this mean my engine is broken I was driving it perfectly fine no engine light no lights at all are on I was on highway city etc everuthing was fine except the uncomfortable part of it vibration to the handlebars
also if I'm stopped the temp rises quick but driving it stays at 76 78
please someone help me


its only the first cylinder but both pistons are quarter inch down all the other cylinders pistons are shut properly

 

Welcome to the CBR Forum Kingdom.

Good on you for doing your own work on your bike. To do it properly you must have a good understanding of how an engine works and what can go wrong.
You are calling valves 'cylinder pistons' - this is incorrect.

The piston is the big thing moving up and down, the valves are actuated by the camshaft and the inlet valve lets the fuel air mixture in, then closes to compress the iston compresses and sparkplug fires the mixture then the exhaust gas escapes when the exhaust valve opens. This is just one of the 4 cyclinders in your bike.

The firing order should be cylinder 1, then 3 followed by 4, then 2 and repeat.
The valves open in a prescribed order via the camshaft.

Before the valves can be set you'll need to find the top dead center (TDC). Manufacturers generally imprint either the flywheel, the alternator rotor, or the ignition rotor with a datum mark indicating top dead center. Depending on the engine design, there may be one mark or a separate mark for each cylinder. Your manual will fill you in on the exact procedure.
To make turning the engine over easier, most bikes have some kind of bolt threaded into the crankshaft which may be used to rotate the engine. Sometimes the bolt is used to hold the alternator rotor. Occasionally it's installed specifically to use when turning the engine over.Valve clearances are checked and adjusted when the crankshaft/piston of the cylinder you are adjusting are at top dead center on the compression stroke. Start by rotating the engine in its normal direction of travel. Watch the intake valve as you rotate the engine. The valve will open on the intake stroke and close on the compression stroke. When the valve begins to close, start to look for the TDC indicator. When it lines up with its reference mark, check both rocker arms for free play.
If the intake and exhaust rocker arms have some lash and the TDC marks line up, the engine is on the TDC of the compression stroke and you can check your valve clearance. If one of the rocker arms is depressed you're on the wrong stroke (even if the marks line up) and need to rotate the engine around again until both rockers are free. Your workshop manual (you do have one don't you?) will list the appropriate valve clearances.

My guess is, if both valves are open (and you have the camshaft removed), you have bent valve stems and they will need replacement.

Cheers, SB

 

thanks buddy your amazing