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02 cbr f4i testing sensors and kill switches

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Old 05-03-2017, 02:27 PM
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Default 02 cbr f4i testing sensors and kill switches

Hopefully my question makes sense.
I'm trying to get my bike started again. It's been years since I was able to ride it and it tipped over when the shed it was in collapsed during hurricane sandy. After I got other things out of the way I went to start riding again and the bike will turn on, the fuel pump won't prime, I hear the clicking of the relays, and it will crank but not turn over. I tested the connection going to the fuel pump and it showed no voltage making it to the connection. So this must mean one of the sensors or kill switches is bad?

I just tested the connection from the bike that leads to the BAS and it gets current, so my question is how do I actually test the BAS, kickstand sensor, ignition kill switch to see if it's faulty? Is there another tool I use beside a voltmeter?

Thanks for any replies
 
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Old 05-03-2017, 03:50 PM
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Try bypassing the BAS. Jump the outer wires on the connector.
 
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Old 05-03-2017, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 74demon
Try bypassing the BAS. Jump the outer wires on the connector.
Tanks so much for the reply. I saw a few things on bypassing the BAS and the side stand sensors to rule them out. What do I use to do it? A certain gauge wire? Speaker wire? Paper clip? Bypassing doesn't ruin anything right? If I bypass the BAS and it doesn't prime the fuel pump I can just take it out connect it again and move onto the kickstand sensor to try to bypass that one right?
 
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Old 05-03-2017, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Mission76
Tanks so much for the reply. I saw a few things on bypassing the BAS and the side stand sensors to rule them out. What do I use to do it? A certain gauge wire? Speaker wire? Paper clip? Bypassing doesn't ruin anything right? If I bypass the BAS and it doesn't prime the fuel pump I can just take it out connect it again and move onto the kickstand sensor to try to bypass that one right?
Paperclip will work fine. If that doesn't solve the problem, I would leave it bypassed until you figure it out.

Kick stand switch wont cause the pump to not run. The kill switch will cause a no crank, among other things.
 
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Old 05-04-2017, 07:19 PM
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Last question because I don't want to bother you too much but I just bypassed the BAS and nothing. My killswitch when I turn it on and off makes the relays click in the rear right of the bike. Since the killswitch makes these relays click does that mean both of the, are working?

I'm also trying to remove the fuel tank however I cannot seem to remove the fuel hose. The one with the banjo connection. Is there a special tool that needs to be used or a certain way that it comes off


Thanks again for all your help
 
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Old 05-04-2017, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Mission76
Last question because I don't want to bother you too much but I just bypassed the BAS and nothing. My killswitch when I turn it on and off makes the relays click in the rear right of the bike. Since the killswitch makes these relays click does that mean both of the, are working?

I'm also trying to remove the fuel tank however I cannot seem to remove the fuel hose. The one with the banjo connection. Is there a special tool that needs to be used or a certain way that it comes off


Thanks again for all your help
leave the hose on the pump. Remove the other end,at the fuel rail. 17mm wrench, don't lose the crush seals.
 
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Old 11-16-2017, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 74demon
Paperclip will work fine. If that doesn't solve the problem, I would leave it bypassed until you figure it out.

Kick stand switch wont cause the pump to not run. The kill switch will cause a no crank, among other things.
what all will the kill switch mess up? I am dealing with similar issues. I gave bypassed the bas and n.saftery switch but the relay for the fuel the brown wired relay wont click and I've changed it several times. the bike turns over just no fuel pump prime no fi light pops up either and I have also swapped ignitions and have 2 ecus to try
 
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Old 11-17-2017, 06:24 PM
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can't we remove the tank with the fuel rail intact? I think removing the 3 small screws attaching the fuel rail to the throttle body would be easier? The injectors tend to come off attached to the fuel rail always. Only need to keep an eye on the rubber spacers on them so that they don't fall off.
Of course the connector joining the fuel pump wiring with main hub needs to be undone.
 
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