Nah, it won't hurt it. If 14,000 was overly dangerous to the motor, Honda would have set the rev limiter lower. Not that you want to live there, but this was Honda's AMA Superspoort champion a few short years ago, it can take it.

I do not hit it on a regular basis, but I am trying to find out what the top speed on my bike is now that I regeared it, and I did hit the limiter yesterday in 5th gear. I ran out of road before I could hit it in 6th though.

 

Hey thanks for the map. I wont be able to try it till after winter tho. I live in Nebraska.

 

OK, I have sent it out to like a dozen people.

Someone reply back and tell me how it worked for you! hehe

 

Got the map thanks very much, will install it tonight and let ya know .

 

Still waiting to order my pipe. Soon, hopefully.

 

Squire, thanks again for the map. I felt a LITTLE difference than the map given with unit, however not as much as I did with the sprocket swap (-1/+2). The sprocket modification is soemthing everyone that owns this bike should experience. Definitely, the best bang for your buck. I dont care what anyones says about top speed being in the 130's, its all about how fast you get there! Using the gears more also makes it more exciting to ride...my opinion only.

Back to the map, how about yourself, did you notice a difference with the dyno'd map compared to the standard PC map?

I think a change in the fuel map should incorporate ignition advance to go along with it. I've been playing with Honda's for awhile and they love timming....I still think its possible to get a few more degrees out of the bike and still run 91/92. Any thoughts?

 

I noticed a difference. The map from Dynojey was too rich in the mid-range.

I like this map over the custom map I had before, simply because of the type of dyno. A regular Dynojet dynom calculates HP based on how fast you can accelerate a 600lb drum. The machine assumes that to go from X speed to Y speed in Z time, you must have whatever HP. And because it is based on time, the reflexes of the operator really effect the results. And if that dyno has a gas anylizer, the best unit in the world still takes at least 4 or 5 seconds to get a good reading, and you are never at a given rpm(except idle) for more than a split second. So they look at a curve with is a calculation effected by operator error, and then adjust mixture to get a better curve. It will get you in the ballpark, but not as accurate as the other method.

That is the Factory Pro braking dyno. Operator error is less of a factor because the HP calculation is not based on time. You want to test the HP at 6000rpm? Pin the throttle and when the bike hits 6000rpm, the brake engages and holds the engine there and measures exactly how much force the engine is exerting, and it knows how much HP is being created because the machine can precisely sense how much force it is having to brake to keep the rpm's from climbing over 6000. And while it sits there for several seconds, you get a very nice gas sample for that exact rpm range.

The guy who did mine, spent 3 hours doing this, at every 500rpm increment, going back and adjusting and retesting every 500rpm increment in this fashion.

When I drove out, I had better throttle response and an extra 3HP on top and more midrange punch. Not night and day like a sprocket change, but you could feel it.

 

I figured out the map will not work for me as i have a PC II not the PC III USB, but i am gonna download the PC III software open it and see if maybe the # will copy over manually.

 

Squire, I read an earlier posting of yours that you're bike was running rich because of tunning done in the winter. Did you lean out? Just curious of the results. I still haven't got my PCIII, need some more convincing. Is it worth? I'm riding the line of buying, or not buying, money not being the issue....

 

Yeah, I now have a warm weather map and a cold weather map, and the thing runs great. I would go get it, it is money well spent if you want to change the pipe.