Weird noise when shifting gears, especially low speed.
#1
Weird noise when shifting gears, especially low speed.
I am getting a weird noise when shifting gears...its sort of rattly and raspy if that makes any sense. It comes on especially strong when I downshift to first coming to a stop...its kinda of like a very slight rattle and a humming noise...it winds down then goes away. Wondering if this is normal...I have an 02 with 8500 miles...just got the bike recently....Thank you.
#5
Rotate the wheel and feel the tension on the chain - there are always "tight spots" in a chain - rotate the wheel and adjust to around 1" play (up and down movement of the chain) at a tight spot - measure it in the middle of the lower chain links ie closest to the ground.
Remember the chain will be tighter when the bike's on the ground.
That's how I do it
Check your chain for wear too - if you can pull it away from the teeth on the rear sprocket when the chain's engaged there - the chain is shagged- get a new one. Same goes for if the chain has "sideways" movement, ie if you push it sideways is there a lot of lateral movement in the links...?
Sprockets should always be changed with the chain - if you don't you'll just wear out your new chain on old sprockets. If your sprockets have "bent" teeth (esp at the end) and/or are very sharp at the tip, they are also worn out.
This can also cause a whine or noise through the chain/transmission....
#7
Shadow- the chain still seems to be good. After reading up a bit on the CCT, I'm pretty sure its the CCT that needs replacing. The noises described from a problematic CCT match the noises I'm getting, plus it looks like I should be due to replace mine (Im at about 8500 miles).
I'm gonna purchase the part myself and go to a local mechanic to install it. My question is- Should I buy a OEM replacement or the APE replacement that everyone seems to go with? Any pros/cons? Thank you for all the help guys.
P.S.- Probably a longshot, but does anyone know of any reputable mechanics in or around Orlando,FL? Thanks again.
I'm gonna purchase the part myself and go to a local mechanic to install it. My question is- Should I buy a OEM replacement or the APE replacement that everyone seems to go with? Any pros/cons? Thank you for all the help guys.
P.S.- Probably a longshot, but does anyone know of any reputable mechanics in or around Orlando,FL? Thanks again.
#8
1st off, and this is my opinion, but you shouldn't be downshifting into 1st gear just to come to a stop, thats alot of load on the gear if your doing it early enough to hear the CCTL rattle [which is between 5-6k rpm]. Just put it in neutral and use your brakes.
2nd, I suggest an OEM replacement. You'll get 50% people telling you to use the oem and 50% saying use an aftermarket manual one. Heres my take: The oem's would have used a manual one if they thought it was a good idea. Some people will argue "but the oem's don't want non motorcycle mechanics to mess it up". Problem with that reasoning is they still have manual adjusted valvetrains in every bike so obviously that isen't a concern for them. The oem tensioner isen't terribly exspensive and my first one lasted me 32,000 miles and the 2nd one is just starting to get a rattle after about 21,000 miles. Thats alot of life sportbike wise.
2nd, I suggest an OEM replacement. You'll get 50% people telling you to use the oem and 50% saying use an aftermarket manual one. Heres my take: The oem's would have used a manual one if they thought it was a good idea. Some people will argue "but the oem's don't want non motorcycle mechanics to mess it up". Problem with that reasoning is they still have manual adjusted valvetrains in every bike so obviously that isen't a concern for them. The oem tensioner isen't terribly exspensive and my first one lasted me 32,000 miles and the 2nd one is just starting to get a rattle after about 21,000 miles. Thats alot of life sportbike wise.
#9
Personal preference here, but I like to come to a stop in gear in case I need to move (like if the light turns green and I'm between 2 cars or I hear someone lock up their brakes behind me and are about to hit me). I usually click it into neutral once traffic is settled in and I know I'll be waiting a minute. I usually switch it into first at like 2k rpm right before coming to a stop though, so the load on the gears is very slight
Last edited by svek; 06-20-2012 at 07:10 PM.
#10
2nd, I suggest an OEM replacement. You'll get 50% people telling you to use the oem and 50% saying use an aftermarket manual one. Heres my take: The oem's would have used a manual one if they thought it was a good idea. Some people will argue "but the oem's don't want non motorcycle mechanics to mess it up". Problem with that reasoning is they still have manual adjusted valvetrains in every bike so obviously that isen't a concern for them. The oem tensioner isen't terribly exspensive and my first one lasted me 32,000 miles and the 2nd one is just starting to get a rattle after about 21,000 miles. Thats alot of life sportbike wise.
Mine started to rattle at 7k miles. I decided to go manual since I didn't even get 10k out of it.