I’ve been getting a vibration into my throttle side grip that’s causing my hand to go numb. The higher the RPM, the more pronounced the vibration becomes and there’s a buzzing sound that accompanies it.
i was thinking there’s some transfer coming through the throttle cable, maybe that’s why one side is vibrating and the other not. I adjusted and lubed the cable not too long ago and it was fine for awhile after I had done that, not that it was a problem before.
i have no idea what maintenance this bike has seen, CCT seems to be rattling at startup, not sure exactly what other issues a bad CCT could cause. Not sure if or when the valves have been adjusted, 38K miles currently. I thought maybe the throttle bodies might need synced up?
any advice?

 

Do the bars have weights on the end?

 

yes, I’ll double check they’re tight, but I’m pretty sure they are

 

I’m going to order some new grips, mine are pretty much shot, and some different bar ends to try. I’m also going to adjust my chain and check my throttle cable tension. Normally they stretch, but if it’s too tight, that could be a problem, it’s a long shot but I need to get this figured out cuz my hand doesn’t like it

edit: turns out one of my internal bar weights was broken. So I’m gonna replace that. I also adjusted the throttle cable, which actually was a bit too tight, now it has a bit of play, 3-4 mm, it had exactly 0 before. And I cleaned and adjusted my chain.
wont have an answer until my parts arrive

still interested in any advice if anyone has input

 

hamlin6........bar weight

 

usually 5-10 minutes depending on which night you go out and how busy they are.....

 

All sportbikes have vibrations. Each time I get a new bike my hands have to get used to it, the first week or so is uncomfortable.

 

i get that, I’ve owned 3 bikes. Each a different engine configuration. I did manage to improve the vibration, not eliminate it, but improved. Actually I’m thinking now it was because I had a loose spark plug. The guy I bought this bike off of is a piece of **** who took shortcuts on absolutely everything and now I’m paying for it.
i ended up blowing out a spark plug last time I had the bike out. It was running great and suddenly it lost power and sounded like a Harley. I thought I blew the engine, or the maybe the timing chain jumped a tooth, or the exhaust manifold had a hole blown in it. But no, spark plug blew right out of the cylinder on the far left side, cylinder 1 or 4, not sure which way they go. So now I have to figure this out. I just had the bike down to rebuild the forks for 6 weeks, most of that was waiting for parts. The threads are shot, I don’t even need to look, the spark plug had aluminum between the threads. I just hope the cylinder didn’t get scored. If that happened, idk if I’ll part out the bike or replace the engine.
For now, the plan is to pull the head, get steel inserts for all the spark plug sockets so this never happens again, and replace the CCT and check the valves while it’s all apart. It just sucks I already invested like $1000 in this bike already this year, if you count tires, and I’ve only ridden it maybe a dozen times. I got an F4i because they’re supposed to be bulletproof. I’m confident this will be my last big problem though.

 

Damn, man, that truly sucks! I hope you are able to get it sorted out!

 

I know people almost never update threads and how irritating that can be so I’m updating. But I ended up doing an engine swap from a lower mileage F4i. Paid about $600 for a 14K mile engine. Swapping the head or repairing the head was not worth it, I did look into it and even started work on swapping the head. If you have the know how and the time, but not the funds, it’s a viable option. But the way our spark plugs and their “holes, slots, port, whatever...” are, repairing the head is going to require some additional skilled machining vs just drilling it out and installing an insert. I’ve been working with CNCs for years, I took it to a machine shop and he explained it to me, but that was a couple months ago. Trust me, I’d forget about trying to repair your head and either swap the head, or the engine to save the most amount of time. The additional complexity of the design means that any mistakes will result in smashing your piston into your spark plug, blowing it out again, or misfires. That’s my experience with this debacle.
actually I have a new problem, I’m thinking it’s either warped rotors or a bad steering bearing. I ended up getting rotors and then later found out it that may not even be the trouble. I tried to check the runout with them on the bike and got one side definitely in spec at around .003-.004 and the other side was .011, but there’s so many variables checking runout on with rotors still on the bike doesn’t inspire confidence in the reading I got. I’ll have to see how they look when I get them off. But I think I’m going to completely rebuild the triple tree, I just need a few parts I don’t have.
this bike has been a pain, rebuilt the forks, engine swap, now rebuild the triple tree 😆 and I’m also planning to swap the rear shock. Once those two things are done it has the be good, please God don’t screw me again!