so i have to time my engine and i got it all back together but it wont turn all the way around. i thought i had the marks lined up right but now im not sure. does anyone know the exact marks that have to be lined up? ive searched and all i find is that i have to line them up but thats all they say. theres a T with a mark by it and an F with a mark by it and there was also a mark by itself all of these are on the crank. PLEASE HELP!!!!!

 

Have you already tightened the cam hold down plate?? If so and you're trying to rotate the engine with it out of time, you're smacking the pistons into the valves... not good!! The cam hold down plate and cams must be removed so that all the valves are closed, then rotate the crank to the correct position. The T and F marks stand for timing and firing. You want to line the little mark next to the T up with the groove on the clutch cover, like this



Then install the exhaust cam, and line up the little line under the EX mark so it's flush with the surface of the head. Remember both the intake and exhaust cams use the exact same cam gear, so both have marks for intake and exhaust cam timing, be sure and use the appropriate mark. It should look like this when it's all tightened down.... might take a few tries to get it right, it can be tricky as they turn slightly when you tighten them down



Then install the intake cam and line up the line under th IN mark with the head



Then TORQUE all the bolts on the cam hold down plate in the EXACT numbered sequence stamped on the plate. Not doing this WILL result in a broken camshaft



And it should look like this when you're all done



And of course the crank should still be lined up at the T mark. Install CCT, then rotate the engine several times (usually takes 4 complete revolutions) and make sure the timing marks still align as they should, and you're all set

 

Hey thanks, you know its funny cuz i was looking all over the internet last night for an answer and i finally stumbled upon your pics and thats what helped me the same pics that you just put up here. Now its turns like it should and the rest is going together today hopefully, any other advice?

 

how did your assembly go i am having the same problems, my bike startd but was backfiring and missing bad.. does this sound like the timings off?
Thanx and appreciate any help

 

i'm getting ready to attempt this. sounds scary.

 

Hi. Here is my question. I have to remove my head due to a strilped plug. I adjusted the #1cylinder to TDC(even used a screw driver to watchvthe cylinder at the top position and i also have the intake and exhaust cam on the gear lined up with the in and ex in the correct position. What im reading is the lobes on the cam should all be off of the valves at this point not putting any pressure on the cam when removing the cam cover. I've rotatated the cylinders and watched with a flashlight and it seems that at TDC the #4 cylinder intake valve is starting to depress when i back it off a bit the the #2 cylinder intake valve starts to depress slightly.
Is this normal or should there be a spot where all vaves are closed and no valve are getting ready to open. Or is the synchronization of the valves so seemless that one is always getting ready to open no matter where you are on the cylinder stroke.
If someone can answer this then when i put thing back together ill understand if i have slight pressure from one of the valves.

 

It's normal. That is why it's important to tighten that cover evenly. Finger tight on all the bolts, then 1 turn each in a crisscross pattern until you get them all torqued up.

 

Thanks for the reply. I wil follow this advice.

 

Good thread!
I am trying to do my valve clearances, took off the cam cover and the timing was as follows: crank turned to T mark, camshafts IN and EX were NOT flush with the engine case, had to turn the crank a little more to get them flush. I think they were out by one tooth on the cam chain. The bike was previously running fine just doing clearances for full service as I acquired the bike recently.
Because of distractions, I lost the timing part way through 🤦🏻‍♂️ and unbolted the cam plate and took out the shafts.
I move the crank to timing mark T and positioned the cam shafts with IN and EX flush with the casing. Put it all together and the bike would not fire up at all, I had spark and fuel.
Question, does the crank follow a 360 cycle or a 720 cycle, i.e. was I out by a whole turn on the crank?
I stripped again and turned the crank 360 and put the cam shafts IN and EX flush with the case, bike ran rough and knocking sounds.
I stripped again, move the cam shaft/chain by one tooth so in theory I’m back to when I started, the engine is quieter but won’t really run at all.
does anyone have any guidance as I think I’ve tried every combination of timing to no avail…

 

Do you have the shop manual for your model/year? Not sure what you're referring to with 360 or 720. It's a 4 cycle engine, so crank is 2:1 ratio to cam shafts. That being said, you can't have the crankshaft 1 turn out. If the cam chain is not connected you put the cams in their proper location as described by the marks, then make sure the crank is in the right position. The key is to ensure that there is no slack in the cam chain on the right side, the side toward the front of the engine. After its installed and you've released the cam chain tensioner, manually rotate the crankshaft clockwise 2 full turns and ensure that the cams return to the proper position when the T mark is properly aligned.