Tightening chain
#11
I have done both over the years and without swingarm spools (only one of my bikes had them) the padded race stand can be a bit of pain to get it up and balanced properly. Adjustment of the stand and position and such. With the 2x4 you just tip the bike and whack it under. Takes less time and work better. True the bike is on a tilt, but so what? I honestly do believe (with the F4i and any other bike that needs to be modified for swingarm spool fitment) it is easier. But like I said, that is just my opinion/experince. I am also 6'1" and 170 LB so I can toss the bike around pretty easily!
I can prolly pop the stand under her before you find a 2x4 to whack under it (unless you keep one specifically for that purpose).
#12
Maybe it was just me, or maybe I had a really useless stand, but I could just never get those pads to work properly! Once I did finally get the width right, I'd have to try a few places on the swingarm to get the depth right. The next time I used it, it seemed like I had to go through it all again. I keep a 2x4 in the tool shed right next to the chain lube and other tools/chemicals. Saves a bit of storage space and it can be used for other things as well! Also, it is MUCH cheaper! I honestly wouldn't take a free rear stand.
It would be great to have one of these though:
Vortex Front Race Stand - Street Bike - Motorcycle Superstore
But my jack works fine, and I already had that laying around anyway:
It would be great to have one of these though:
Vortex Front Race Stand - Street Bike - Motorcycle Superstore
But my jack works fine, and I already had that laying around anyway:
#14
#15
Just make sure that the axle is contacting both adjusters after tightening the axle nut. I use the same method as on my dirt bike by putting a small spanner on the top side of the rear sprocket and turn the back wheel so it jams itself between the chain and sprocket. This is an old method but works to pull the axle back into place while tightening the axle nut. Oh, only worth doing if you've got both side chain adjustment marks/increments evenly matched or you'll prematurely wear your chain against the rear sprocket. You'll know if you get it wrong cause one side (usually the right side) won't have any load on it(the adjuster) and rattle(rattle if really out of alignment but still able to move if done incorrectly) around by hand if you try and move it by hand. Hope my explanation makes any sense.
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