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Swapping Rotors - Any Special Steps?

  #1  
Old 03-22-2016, 05:21 PM
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Default Swapping Rotors - Any Special Steps?

Got some new wave rotors to replace my seemingly warped/worn front discs. I've read the service manual in regards to changing brake pads, which seems pretty straight forward. I won't be touching the pads, but what is the general way to change rotors?

-Bike on stand
-Loosen brake caliper
-Remove wheel
-Install new rotor with locktite and the likes
-Reinstall wheel, and place brakes back on rotor
-Tighten brakes
-Tighten wheel

was a large part of my reference.

Is there anything specific to look out for? If the new rotors are thicker than my current one, how do I set the distance of the brake pads properly? Thanks, guys!
 
  #2  
Old 03-22-2016, 05:45 PM
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Its pretty straightforward. They should directional, so make sure they get on the correct sides.
 
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Old 03-22-2016, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 74demon View Post
Its pretty straightforward. They should directional, so make sure they get on the correct sides.
Will do. Like I said, how do I account for differences in rotor thickness, if any? The manual says to push the calipers all the way in - do I just use a screw driver or something?
 
  #4  
Old 03-22-2016, 08:43 PM
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I think you forgot a step. After you remove wheel you also need to remove old rotors BEFORE you install new rotors! You didnt mention nothing about that. Haha, I know Im a smart ***. A little tip, since you'll have the caliper off of the bike, give your calipers a good scrubbing with hot soapy water and an old toothbrush, or your wifes toothbrush. You'll have to remove the pads though to do this but it will help removing a bunch of brake dust from the part of the piston thats exposed. Which should help when you try to push them back into the caliper. Just rinse and blow dry before putting the pads back. Also dont top off your master cylinder beforehand, you'll need that empty space for the pistons to squeeze back in. Follow the manual when installing the wheel and calipers. I dont have a F4, but I have F2 and 08 cbr1000rr and the manuals says something to the affect "tighten one side bounce forks up and down tighten other side" something like that.
 
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Old 03-22-2016, 08:53 PM
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Also, when I push my pistons back in I pry against the old brake pads so as not to damage the pistons. Dont want to damage the pistons. Yes I pry with a big screw driver or 2 at a time, kinda like prying two pieces of wood apart.
 
  #6  
Old 03-22-2016, 11:31 PM
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It shouldn't take much pushing on the pads since you're not replacing them. The new rotors will be thicker by only a millimeter or so, if that. A lot of times, just wiggling the caliper on the old rotor when its loose will give you enough clearance to make them slide right back on.
 
  #7  
Old 03-27-2016, 04:19 PM
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Great, thanks guys! I'm going to give it a whirl tomorrow and see how it goes!
 
  #8  
Old 03-28-2016, 09:37 AM
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Just a little tip, while your calipers are off the bike, make sure a some moron doesnt walk into your garage and start pumping the brake lever. That could make a mess and more work. It never fails, when some none riding friend or family member is looking at one of my bikes they grab the handle bar and squeeze the brake lever. Why? Who the hell knows. I guess they cant help theirselves.
 
  #9  
Old 03-28-2016, 03:26 PM
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Nailed it this morning in two hours (most of that spent finding tools and reading the manual). Thanks, guys!

Went on without a hitch, and feels excellent. The rotors I bought on eBay are Chinese Wave Rotor knock offs with rave reviews, and I'm impressed thus far. My brake lever is absolutely solid now, and the stopping power is excellent. No more bouncing as I reach low speed either, so mission accomplished! Not to mention my pocket is only out $240 for both, as opposed to $340+ per rotor.
 
  #10  
Old 04-01-2016, 07:41 PM
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Where did you end up getting your rotors from?
 

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