I didn't open the engine until 3 months after the incident. It sat during that time. It didn't sound like liquid squirting out when I hand-turned it, but then again I had everything else off of it including the fuel injectors. I'm still uncertain but I find it hard to believe it's something like a spun rod bearing, I ran Rotella T 15w-40 full synthetic, with high rating filters, and I don't run it hard regularly (just an occasional WOT getting on the interstate, or lifting the front up for a few sec.). This hydro-lock idea is interesting, I never reconnected one of the hoses for my fuel pump, the vacuum line I think. Mainly because when my bike was stolen they pry'd open the gas lid, so no vacuum would exist anyways. I don't know much about Hydro-lock. Does any of that info help? Thanks

 

I thought I should add that my low fuel indicator was on, and I was at 1-3 bars of fuel. Also took another look at the head, and does this look cleaner possibly because of piston impact?

 

your intake valve or the cover/head/whatever its called? if its really clean it can be water/coolant but the outside two look fairly similar. is your bike running lean?
if the piston went that high i think it would show on the spark plug first, and probably would move a bit on the crankshaft.
something does look wrong with that cylinder though. if thats rust on the plug it may have been hydro locked with coolant, probably not though. who knows

 

Hydro-lock can be caused by a few things. You would have to read up on it to better understand for yourself. sorry I'm not fully familiar with the things that would cause it, so I don't want to confuse you or give you inaccurate details. but check out this video a little bit about it. but at this point, after the bikes been sitting, if it was hydro-locked, the liquid in there is probably already gone so you would not be able to tell.

 

just food for thought... cleaner cylinder due to bearing wear is typically cause but not always due to the increase in compression. on the upstroke of the engine the piston get thrown higher increasing compression and giving a hotter burn. the hotter burn will burn off carbon deposit & simulating a detonation/near detonation style event throwing the piston harder down. generates heavy knock that can transfer through the crank. it can also resonate in the head and valve assembly with out experiencing valve/piston contact.

i am not trying to convince you that it's bearing wear... i am just passing on information that i know and have experienced. this is not all cases but could account for what you experienced... iinteresting thread keep us updated...

good luck hope you get running soon

 

Well I pulled the bottom oil pan off, there was some coolant bubbling above the oil coating on the pan. Could have been from dis-assembly, but regardless the inside of the bottom end looks pretty worn. There's metal scratching in multiple places, and I'm pretty sure part of one the crankshaft weights or w/e got ground off somehow. The gears and all look fine, but the crank and general lower end housing looks beat up on the inside. I'm going to call it and say she's seen her last ride. Rest in peace "Hornet". I'm looking at replacement engines on eBay. I found what appears to be a good engine, only 3k miles, track tested before dismounted. $855 + Free shipping (I think I have to pick it up at a freight station?). But I wanted some opinions on it, and the idea of eBay engines before I go ahead with it. This will be my savings so I have to choose wisely! And I want it to last. Here's the link, all opinions wanted/appreciated. Thanks everyone

01 06 Honda F4i Engine Motor Runs and Shifts Perfect 3K Mile Motor | eBay

 

it has low miles that is a great thing... i think cost wise you can do better,BUT
you do get what you pay for .. and the seller seems very open to resolve issues if you have any...
you should take pictures of your engine show us what your looking at....
the crank weight lobes are ground down at the factory for clearance they are not rounded ends.....
i am curious to see what you have going on in the engine

 

 

Most if not all of those flake things are wood shavings btw. I used a piece of wood to pry the bottom off easily and when it came off the wood had holes drilled in it and wood shavings came off.

 

Even if it isn't badly damaged, a gasket set is $260. I know it needs a valve job $400, so even if all I had was valve noise (which I doubt) I'm looking at $660 for required parts and labor on a 24k mile engine which I still don't know what's wrong with. If it is crank/rod related it would be more than I can afford. So that $850 3k mile engine 'seems' like a pretty sweet deal to me.