There should be a lock nut at the bottom and an adjustment nut at the top, by that pic it looks like the lock nut missing, which could cause the timing chain to jump a tooth, but hopefully not.

 

Yeah I noticed that when I looked on Google Images at the manual CCT. The shop emailed me back after I explained my situation and they said the service could cost $400+. They are a pretty good shop as far as helping you out with mechanical stuff, they're mostly a dyno performance shop. Do I need to remove the radiator to drop the engine out? One of my top radiator mounting bolts isn't actually a bolt, it's a black shaped bolt that seems welded on or something. I'll link a pic, I don't know how to remove it if it's needed to drop the engine. And also I noticed tiny cracks on my engine block that I wanted to ask about, I don't think they're new but should I be concerned?

Radiator mystery bolt:


Tiny cracks on engine:

 

i guess the radiator doesnt have to go. the more and more i see of peoples problems the more pictures i see.
one in particular was the the cylinder head out on a cbr600F4 and the radiator and engine still on, i dont think there is much difference, but i dont know 100%
you can however check and adjust valves and timing with the engine mounted in the bike. now would be a good time to download the service manual, you can google and find it easy enough
i yanked this from another site
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/fo...camremoved.jpg
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/fo...t=85499&page=3

 

No crack In the engine block is good obviously but like they previously stated doing a compression check would tell you whether or not those cracks are anything of concern. About that bolt, I have no clue lol but I agree with rudygt now would be a fantastic time to get the service manual. It's a great resource and reference to have when doing any work on your bike. Hope it's nothing to detrimental keep us updated

 

Is the radiator mystery bolt the radiator mount grommet to the frame? When I changed my spark plugs this spring, you pull the radiator from the "boss" to swing the radiator out of the way.

 

Wow I didn't think about that. I hadn't disconnected the radiator completely so I never tried. I'll give that a shot thanks.

 

compression test, compression test, compression

also, dont take off ur radiator. unless you plan on removing the head or something.

 

CCT got that loose - timing went out at 11k whacked the valves- just an opinion

Hopefully the shop says otherwise - hopefully

 

^^^^ worst case scenario, compression and leakdown test!!! also post an update

 

Hey guys, while I was getting the engine ready to be removed from the frame I realized I didn't have the socket/tool to remove the suspension engine mount bolts. So tonight I decided to just remove the valve cover since the engine is easy to get to now, and I found two things. The cylinder on the far right (from seated position) has some white build-up in its exhaust port that has the consistency of regular carbon buildup. And THIS! Which my intuition tells me about those lines is a skipped timing chain, so improper timing and maybe valves striking the pistons. Feedback appreciated! Both of those lines should be aligned correct?