Revivin this thread a bit since I'm thinking of putting the 5000m I have in until I can get a Scorpio alarm I want.

Was looking over the wire diagram and thinking back to when I installed the Cyclone 866F in my F3. I think the pink and grey wires on the 5000m are a starter kill. When I installed the Cyclone, I had to cut a yellow / red wire and splice two wires onto the ends to activate the starter kill. I went back out and verified the wires on the F3.

Now my question is for those who have installed the alarm without the remote start: can you verify the starter kill is working?

 

I actually have the wole weekend to work on my bike so I might even have a go at the remot start/kill portion of system as well. Projectors are first and foremost but then I should have some timeto look at remote start. Ill pull out multimeter and see what I can come up with.

 

Going by your previous posts, looks like all your splices and cuts were back by the battery. Not up by the clipons.

I need a wire schematic and I can prolly figure it out. But all the d/l manuals are missing section 20. And the copy of the service manual I bought from Amazon just shipped today

 

Been researching a little more.

I may be right about the pink and gray wires interrupting the yellow / red from the starter kill. The blue wire for the remote start prolly needs to go to the starter relay to trigger the start.

Where the question comes in is if the alarm will simulate the Key On position in order to get the fuel pump to prime. That may be the purpose of the brown wire tapping into the +ignition wire

 

Let me know what you need and I can copy (take pictures of) the pages you need.
Took me all day today to get the wiring for the projectors just the way I wanted it.Tomorrow Ill be finishing that off and then looking at the remote start. I doubt Ill get very far with it as I also want to fix my ATV tomorrow.

For the alarm light I am thinking about drilling a hole in either the tail or between the seats to put the light. What do you think about that. I had it in the front intake cover but put a switch there for HID so I can turn it off during start up.

 

Depends on why you want the light. Sometimes the LED can be a warning to a potential thief that the bike has an alarm. Sometimes the LED can be a warning to a good thief that he has a little rewiring to do before stealing the bike. Better to catch the good thief unawares

I'm thinking about right next to the license plate light in the undertail myself.

 

Ok, here's my plan on hooking this up.

Alarm red -> Red at fuse box (power from battery thru the fuse box & main fuse)
Alarm brown -> red / black at fuse box (will check w/ meter for power)
Alarm pink -> black / white away from ECM (for ignition disable)
Alarm grey -> black white towards ECM (for ignition disable)
Alarm blue -> yellow / red at starter relay (for remote start)

From what I'm seeing in the wire diagram, this should work everything. I won't use the pink & grey wires yet because they require cutting the harness and involve the ECM. Without them, everything but the ignition kill should work.

 

Update:
Hooked up as I said, everything but the remote start works. The remote start will crank the bike. But the bike won't start because the fuel pump doesn't activate. I tried leaving the killswitch in the run position but still no joy.

The dash does light up and run thru its diagnostics. And stays on, without the key and even locked, when triggered with the remote start.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfPTHlHivnk

Yeap, got it.
The correct way to hook it up is:

• Alarm red -> Red at fuse box (power from battery thru the fuse box & main fuse)
• Alarm brown -> black in 10p gray connector (goes to Engine Stop Relay)
• Alarm pink -> black / white away from ECM (for ignition disable)
• Alarm grey -> black white towards ECM (for ignition disable)
• Alarm blue -> yellow / red at starter relay (for remote start)

Update:
Kill switch has to be set to Run for the remote start to work. At Stop, the fuel pump doesn't prime. I'm waiting for a friend to arrive so I can check what happens if the bike is in gear. I want both hands on the bars in case it lurches.

 

Thats awesome that you figured it out. I was hoping to get to mine today but ended up having to do some work on atv and car as well so ran out of time.

Im excited to get it hooked up now. Finished rewiring my projectors so remote start is next on list. Then I just need to work up nerve to cut for the frame sliders.

You should take some pictures of where you did your connections and Ill add them in to the write up to make a complete how to.

Thanks for all of your help and information. Now we can finish this thread off hopefully. Just need to see if that neutral safety switch works or not. If the bike lurches you could probably work a relay into the neutral safety switch or something.