My bike still gets the rattle noise from 5k or so to 8k, sounds like ****! I just had a shop replace my cct. Still getting the noise, anyone have a solution/ideas? Did they not put it in right?

 

did u have it replaced with a OEM CCT, should have bought a APE CCT then things would have been all good.

 

I used the OEM one. I didn't want to have to mess with it. It took it into a shop to get it put in. Why would the stock one not fix the problem?

 

every f4i owner has this problem, of course replacing an oem cct with an oem cct isn't going to fix it. I'd take it back to the shop. They might give you a discount on installing an APE part. But that was really a waste of money.

 

Dang, I was reading around and from I could tell, it would fix it. Couldn't I just tighten the OEM one and lock it in place with a longer bolt?

 

Here search this"Grambo trick" u might be able to do that and help urself out.

 

dude...why are you guys giving advice when you don't even know how the OG one works? APE this, APE that...APE don't go APE $#!T over it...

the OG one is providing enough tension!!! you can also give it more tension by taking it apart and adding some turns to the spring.
now assuming the shop did actually do the work AND install a new OEM tensioner then it shouldn't do that...

either your problem was never the tensioner to begin with or they didn't install it at all. the only thing wrong with the stock one is that the tip and shaft isn't one solid piece like the APE, so the tip rattles...but in due time, i think many folks will jack their bike up due to APE...

why? well...the cam chain has different tensions throughout...with APE, you only adjust for one and it stays like that...thte stock one, by walking the bike in gear and pushing it, you get the cam chain to to turn and the stock will get as tight as the loosest spot.

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and to piggy back off tahoe, since this is such a known issue with the oem cam tensioner, Honda would have a tsb on it, and would there for replace how they made the tensioner back then with how it should be made. meaning that the oem one would fix the problem if this was his problem.

 

im not saying the APE is the only way to go, its just the easiest. It would take a shop alot less time to just throw in a brand new part then to take apart a stock CCT and then reinstall it. Plus the stock one isnt garunteed to work still, at least with the APE it can be tightened and loosened without having to remove the whole unit.

 

it actually takes less time to mod the stocker than it does to adjust the APE!!!
it is a known issue with F4is that's why they now use the j23, which some still claim rattles, but i've yet to have any issues with it. fact is, no f4i has had timing jumped because the cctl 'failed'...it's not failing, it's just noisy.

if you take a stocker, look at it and even take it apart, you'll understand how it actually works and how easy it would be to add more tension (by adding turns to the spring), or modding the roller pin...seriously folks, i can do both in 5 minutes and that is taking my time!

all you need to do is remove the cctl, spread the roller pin that holds on the cctl tip until the tip has no play to move, then you're all good. now if the cctl is failing, then the cam chain would jump real quick...

who cares about how much time the shop is taking...because you should do your own work to know your machine and so you know exactly what is going on with it.