I'll be repainting my F4i soon and will be changing the main color but will be keeping the black "big wings" (lower fairings are already black as is the front fender). I'll paint the upper, tank, and tail the new color. And will probably leave the front fender black

To save a little time and money, couldn't I just mask off and repaint over the colored decals that are already on the lower fairings to change them to the new color? This would save a bit that I'd otherwise spend on a decal kit. I'll probably do this as I've really got nothing to lose by trying but I'd like to hear some opinions.

Next, assuming that the above idea doesn't pan out, I'll probably want to repaint the lowers (keeping them black) but the question becomes whether to paint on the "big wing" design or purchase a decal kit. Would painting them on be worth the cost avoidance? I'm guessing probably not but then again I've never installed vinyl decals either.

 

I would say go for it and paint over your decals,worse comes to worse,you will have to repaint them and buy decals,on the other hand,should you take your time,do a lil homework you may come out with something better than the decals you would purchase.i say take a chance and go for it

 

So now I've discovered Plasti Dip. It seems too good to be true. Please discuss

 

What would you use plasti-dip for? that's a very thick substance.

As for painting... Masking the decal is not really the issue. depending on the type of paint you use. You're going to be adding some thickness to the body (natural paint build up), which would result in a "lip" of sorts where the masking was on the wing decal.

If you plan to clear-coat, you may run into an issue with the clear not adhering to the decal and running or bubbling.

After painting my entire f4i body using only rattle can paint, wet sanding and clear coat, I would seriously suggest doing it properly. sand down the fairings, use an etching primer and paint using whatever you want. The thinner the coat of paint the better. Try and grab automotive grade paint if you can.

Getting decal kits are cheap, and would be a lot loss work than trying to mask off the decal. because if you don't like the results, or get paint chipping when you remove the mask your gonna be pissed at the time and effort you put into it. Of course, it's not the end of the world, but you'll kick yourself.

just my two cents.

 

If you don't use a coat of primer, most paint will not stick over the old paint for long.

 

Good advice on the decal kit. As far as plastidip, I've seen a lot (on the Internet) about people coating their fairings (and even entire cars) in the stuff to good success.

I still plan to do a complete paint job, the plastidip idea is a bit of a plan b in the event that I totally muck it all up.

 

Plasti dip is an alternative,but should you get a lil chip here and there do to road debris,it will peal off lil at a time,Ild go with the advice the guy above me said ad take your time and sand and get the auto motive paint

 

Good point, thanks. I do intend to use primer. I do not have access to proper professional equipment though so I'll be using rattle cans for the primer, color, and clear.

Based on quite a bit of research, my planned method will be something like this (please feel free to critique, I welcome everyone's input):
- Remove fairings and tank, wash them with soapy water, and dry them
- Sand the parts to rough them up and remove the old clearcoat [250-400 grit]. I've read some conflicting opinions about whether one should sand the parts down to bare metal/plastic. I had planned not to since doing so would be more work and others have achieved good results without doing so.
NOTE: part of this step is to remove the decals including those under the clearcoat on the tank
- Smooth out the surfaces on the parts by wet sanding [400 grit] until they are all very smooth to the touch and there are no scratches or imperfections. I've read to use body filler (i.e. Bondo) as necessary to fill any gouges or deep scratches though in my case I haven't observed any so I do not plan to use body filler.
- Spray the primer coats: spray a very light primer coat onto the surfaces. The first "pass" is very light ("just get it on there" is a quote I've read), allow to dry for ~15 minutes (or whatever the spraycan says), spray the second "pass" which should be better coverage but will likely still have the surface color showing through, allow to dry again shortly, apply the third "pass" which should provide good coverage. If coverage is uneven or if surface color still shows through, apply additional "passes" using the same process (spray, wait a bit, spray, wait a bit, etc.)
- Allow primer coats to dry for 10-48 hours (longer is better, follow whatever the spraycan says).
- Wet sand the now-primered surfaces [400 grit] until they are absolutely smooth (any imperfections will show through the final product).
- Spray the color coats using the same process as spraying the primer coats (i.e. spray, wait, spray, wait, spray, [repeat as necessary], let cure for 48 hours).
NOTE: Here is an area where I read varying opinions. I've also read that another option at this stage is to spray, let cure, wet sand, spray, let cure, wet sand, spray, let cure, wet sand. This option sounds more thorough but at a significant time expense which is why I'm not currently planning on going that route.
- Wet-sand the color-painted surfaces [600 grit]
- Wash the color-painted surfaces with soapy water and dry them completely.
- spray the clear coats: same process as before (spray, wait, spray, wait, spray, wait, [...], let cure for 48 hours)
- wet-sand the clear-coated surfaces [starting at 1000 grit and finishing with 1500 grit]
- wash with soapy water and dry completely
- buff clear coated surfaces with polishing or glazing compound
NOTE: are these the same thing?
- Wait several weeks before waxing since the paint is not completely set up yet and the wax would trap chemicals and impede the process.
NOTE: how many weeks? I've read anywhere from 2-6.


I'd really appreciate any tips for the finer points for spraying and sanding (or anything else):
- Sanding techniques: For instance should I use a sanding block or just paper and my hand? I've read that sandpaper around a sponge is a good idea. Should I apply pressure while sanding? If so, how much pressure?
- Supplies: How much cans of paint will I need? how much primer and clear? Will the tank require more than the one can of the Spraymax 2K clearcoat that I have? How much of each grade of sandpaper will I need (the finer stuff >600 grit is hard for me to find locally)?
Currently, I've got some automotive primer, and Krylon color and clear (I'm very limited with what brands are available). For the gas tank, I've purchased a can of Spraymax 2K clear coat (a gas-resistant 2-part clearcoat; activated with a **** on the bottom of the can; have to use within 24 hours of activating).
Right now I've got 5 cans each of primer, color (Krylon), and clear (Krylon) and the one can of the Spraymax 2K clear. For sandpaper I've got maybe 4 sheets each of 400, 600, 800, 1000, and 1500 grit.
What does success look like? When I'm spraying and sanding, how is it supposed to look along the way so I know I'm doing it right?

 

That's valuable input. Thank you.

 

Check out this set of videos on painting. If your only going to use rattle cans, I can say that one can of 2k is not enough. Your gonna want at least 3-5 coats + a wet sand at the end to bring down any orange peel.


Frankly, I took my tank down to the metal, used an etching primer right after to avoid any oxidization from forming.

The fairings, I did enough so the decals came off, and just roughed up the rest of the surface with a brillo-scotch bright pad. You can use 800-1000 grit to do the same, You really want to just make sure the surface is clean of bumps or imperfections.

As with the above posts, you're first couple passes of rattle can paint HAVE to be light. You want to just get the paint to be tacky to hold a more solid pass. Depending on the flash time of the paint, and their directions, second and third coats follow. Remember, don't build up the paint if you can help it. I made the mistake and it chips a whole lot easier. Remember, there is no hardener in most of these unless they are enamel based, so it will be soft paint and prone to scratching and chipping. I used Plasti-coat. I would not do it again.

A good wet sand with soapy water and using hand pressure. you don't want to take down your base coat and make it wavy.

Also an interesting point about rattle can paint. Use a gloss finish. or semi gloss. You want to reduce the high points of the paint, so when you clear coat you have an optimal surface. With the gloss, you will immediately know if you missed spots, or have not sanded enough, the sanding will produce a milky finish on the paint, while the missed spots will still be glossy.

I know I used a fair number of cans of paint, 5-8 i think for the base. Cans don't always have great coverage. I also airbrushed a metallic flake over top of that for a better effect.

I only did 2-3 coats of clear, it was not enough by the time i wet sanded. You get build ups with rattle can paint. just by their nature.

You can get a great effect, but it will take a lot of time. Good luck.