He does not have to use Synth, in fact I doubt the factory fills it with synth, would everyone reccomend that he use it, sure, but does he have to use it? No. In fact I ran a conventional motorcycle oil in my bike twice for 1k mile oil changes after I bought it. I had no idea what the other guy used in it and how dirty it was and what not so I did a half *** flush on it buy just doing two oil changes on it 1k miles apart. After that, I now use Mobil 1 MX4T (10w-40)

 

my bike is also lowered, dont know if that will affect anything, i plan on raising it back up, but wanted to get the oil change out of the way first, and the guy who is helping me barely answers and always makes up excuses of why he cant help me a certain day

 

its daytime and if you need, i'll take better pics to help you out.

 

i think i got where the filter and plug is but if you think it will help out more that would be great, thanks for all the help, should i be changing the air filter also?

 

If the bike is lowered you better get a shallow pan or use a bike stand. The regular old black standard oil empty pan don't fit under the bikejust on the stand.

 

i hate oil related forum jihads as much as the next guy. but it doesn't need to be synth, and it doesn't need to be "motorcycle" oil. as long as it's not an energy conserving oil (of which there are few in the right viscosity), then it's fine.

spending 12/qt for motul 300v or repsol synth 4T is a total waste of money for me, when i can just get a jug of castrol syntec or mobil 1 at walfart for $20.

 

lowered bikes require synthetics...because synthetic everything is the best...that's why everyone likes the 6 million dollar mang and robots and stuff...cause they all synthetic...

 

I guess, but there is more then just a motor requiring lubrication and what not on a wet clutch bike that uses the oil to lube everything. I wish someone could conduct a study, one using Mobil1 10w-40 and one using Mobil1 10w-40 MX4T to see if there really is a difference.....

 

For any of you that give a damn here is a study I found between automotive oil and motorcycle oil.....
http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm

"Despite more than six months of research, reading all the claims and counter-claims printed by dozens of industry experts and lubrication experts, MCN cannot and does not purport to know all there is to know about the differences between automotive and motorcycle oils. However, what we do know is that we can find no substantive evidence that using a high-quality, name-brand automotive oil in an average street motorcycle is in any way harmful or less effective in providing proper lubrication and protection than using the more expensive, motorcycle-specific oils."


THAT IS INTERESTING.....I THINK I AM DUMPING MX4T and GOING MOBIL1(automotive)....the tell tail sign for me is going to be if shift feel or clutch engaugement/disengaugement changed.....

I guess I will report back...but it won't be for a while.

EDIT: this post superceeds my above one...lol

 

Some more info

http://vmaxoutlaw.com/tech/motorcycle_oil.htm

"Real World Test Results
Are there any "real world" examples of long motorcycle engine life using automotive oils? There is a good one in the June 1996 issue of Sport Rider magazine in a report called the "100,000 mile Honda CBR900RR." The owner used conventional Castrol GTX oil, 10W40 in the winter, 20W50 in the summer. He changed it every 4,000 miles, changing the filter every OTHER oil change. No valve clearance adjustments were required after the initial one at 16,000 miles. And a dyno test against the same model with only 6,722 miles showed torque and horsepower virtually identical. The 100,000 mile bike was even used for some racing. In a subsequent follow-up, the same CBR had passed 200,000 miles and was still going strong! Plus, many motorcyclists have emailed me with their very positive results using nothing but automotive oils for years in a variety of rides. Oils have changed over the past 10 years, but that just means we need to be more careful in our choices. "

"Some are concerned that the new "energy-conserving" motor oils may have "friction modifiers" which will cause clutch slippage. Since that is a legitimate concern it is best to use only oils which are NOT "energy-conserving for motorcycles with wet clutches." Read the back of the container. It clearly identifies this. In general, only the very lighter oils, like 10w30, 10w20, 5w20, are energy-conserving. All 5w40, 5w50, 10w40, 15w40, 15w50, and 20w50 oils which I have found are not energy-conserving and can be recommended for general motorcycle use.
It is commonly mis-stated that "SJ and SL oils have friction modifiers which will cause wet clutch slippage." In reality, all oils have friction modifiers, that's how they work. ZDDP itself is a friction modifier. The real issue is to avoid getting the friction so low, with very thin oils containing extra amounts of friction modifiers, that clutches will slip under normal use. Stay away from energy conserving oils and you should be fine, if your clutch is in good working order. "