New (to me) F4i
 

Hi

I got my F4i last August, a 2001 model with 28k kms on the clock. After a couple of days I ordered a manual CCTL, as it was rattling a little between 5 and 6k rpm's. The only mods, apart from the CCTL are an Acrapovic slip-on and a K&N air filter. I guess I should get me a PCIII or an oem airfilter and end can, but I'll leave it as it is for the time being, since I can't persuade the missus that it will be a necessary expense.

Anyway, I have a few small issues with it, and I would like some opinions.
Around 35k it started ticking. The previous owner has done a vlavejob once, but I guess it's time for a closer look at that valvetrain. The question is, should I do it myself?
I'm quite mechanically inclined, but Ive never adjusted valves before. I have everything needed, apart from the shim kit, and I completely understand the procedure described in the service manual. I have more than once rebuilt shocks, front and rear, brake m/c's and calipers, changed clutch sets, rebult and tuned carburators etc. I have never fiddled with a cylinder head/valvetrain, though, and it kinda intimidates me.

The second issue is the front brake system. When I got the bike in the first place, the front brake was responsive, although it felt kinda soft-spongy. I installed ss lines, so i also cleaned, checked and greased whatever needed cleaning, checking and greasing. Everything has been torqued down to specs, the caliper seals are not leaking, However, 3-4k kms later, the lever started feeling softer, the way it feels when it needs bleeding. I thoroughly inspected it for leaks, bled it, added brake fluid (from a sealed container), but after another 2k kms it softened again.

My options are to either rebuild everything, or get me a 600rr or 1000rr radial M/C, and hope it solves the problem. It seems to me it's the only part that could be responsible, mainly because I'm sure the callipers and the brake line joints arent leaking. Any ideas on that?

The third issue has to do with the clutch/gearbox. Sometimes, when I shift, the gear engages while I'm depressing the clutch. I press the clutch, then press the gear lever, it makes the noise it should make, then, while I'm depressing the clutch it makes the same noise again, and then the gear engages. This mainly happens in 1st/2nd gear, but I think it has happened once or twice in higher gears as well. What could be causing that?

Any thoughts are welcome!

congrats on the bike. As for the valves how long ago did the previous owner get them adjusted? it should be done right around 16000 miles or 25000 km soooo if it was done properly around that time you shouldnt hvae to worry about it again for a while. If it wasnt done properly or at all id say thatd be the source of your ticking and theres really only one way to find that out. If you follow the manual and know exactly what you have to do and how to do it and are confident you can do it right i say go for it. Itd be a good learning experience. Definitely intimidating though.

For the brakes a radial m/c will definitely firm up the feel of of the brakes or just a new oem master cylinder in general. With the bike having that much use it could just need to be rebuilt/replaced, im not really sure how long m/c are good for or if there even is a timeframe for them in terms of how many miles/how long they last since that all depends on the amount and type of braking has been done. Either way a radial m/c wont hurt and is pretty easy to do so why not.

as for the third issue are you saying the bike doesnt shift or engage the next gear until the clutch is let out a certain amount?

A-I guess I'll do the valves, worst thing that can happen will be loading it and taking it to the mechanic.

B-Are there any ways air or moisture could somehow get in the brakes system, without any fluid leaking?

C-Lets say, for example's sake, that I'm trying to go from 2nd gear to 3rd. I push the gear selector (or whatever it's called) up, I feel and hear a normal gear change, but it actually engages after i've let the clutch out a little. Something like missing a gear, but without missing it.

It actually seems like a good excuse for a clutch set and a factrorypro shiftstar/arm/spring ;)

a) yup true, plus itll probably be cheaper at that point too if its already torn apart or close to being put back together.

b) You changed out the lines so theres no puncture or hole in those that air could be getting in to. Arent there crush ring seals on the brake fittings? Did you change those out when replacing the lines? If not they could not be sealed properly and that could allow some air in probably. Other than that id say its either the m/c or the pistons in the calipers that would need rebuilding, resealing, etc.

c) yeah im not sure about that maybe your clutch is just going bad and needs replacing sooo could definitely be a good excuse for a new one. Or take it to/wait for someone whod have a better idea of what would cause that before you go buying those.

are you sure its the valves ticking? it could be the cct going bad. just to throw that in there. mine has been rattling for awhile now and it kinda sounds like valve tick at times but i know its the cct

I changed the crush washers. I'll probably get myself a 600/1000rr M/C and if that doesn't fix it, a caliper seal kit (I guess it should be the other way round, but i cant resist radial m/c's)

I wasn't 100% sure about the ticking, so I tried readjusting the manual cctl, and nothing changed. The sound comes (mainly) from the left side of the engine, and it can be heard through the exhaust as well, at low revs (exhaust valves maybe?)

Got a new question concerning the valve adjustment: should I replace the o-rings below the cam holder (the ones around the spark plugs)?

Update: I replaced the m/c and everything is as it should be so far. I've ordered a set of shims, so I'll be doing a valve job next weekend, and I'll take a look at the clutch, maybe something is over the replacement limit.

hi asterie!
i am also from athens and i also bought a 01 f4i.
i want to ajust the valves my self.i have done it on my previous bike (honda bros) so i think that i can manage to do it again with this bike.
how much did you pay for the shim kit?

as for the clutch are you sure that the noise when you decompress the clutch is coming from inside the engine?
if yes its identicall to the normal one prodused when the gearbox changes gear?
where its coming from left?right?
the chain is properly adjusted?

It was a HotCams kit, 90$ in total ( shipping included ) : eBay - New & used electronics, cars, apparel, collectibles, sporting goods & more at low prices

The clutch noise comes form the clutch assembly, I am certain. It's almost identical to the normal one.