Need an opinion from everybody!
#1
Need an opinion from everybody!
As mentioned before, I recently purchased a 2001 F4i with 16k miles.
Bought it for $2,900.
There are a number of things wrong with the bike including the rattling (which was mentioned as the CCT), speedometer does not function (only sometimes), so it's been stuck at 16k miles for quite some time, needs new bar ends, levers are not matched, and basically a new fairing kit (since the owner dropped it).
My question is, if you were in my position.....gaining experience is already part of the agenda....but I'm thinking if I should just ride and rebuild her as if she just came off the showroom OR just ride the crap out of her and go buy a new one.
I have my endorsement and this is my first bike.
I took a different route as compared to my friends...since they all went out and bought brand new bikes with no endorsements.
Bought it for $2,900.
There are a number of things wrong with the bike including the rattling (which was mentioned as the CCT), speedometer does not function (only sometimes), so it's been stuck at 16k miles for quite some time, needs new bar ends, levers are not matched, and basically a new fairing kit (since the owner dropped it).
My question is, if you were in my position.....gaining experience is already part of the agenda....but I'm thinking if I should just ride and rebuild her as if she just came off the showroom OR just ride the crap out of her and go buy a new one.
I have my endorsement and this is my first bike.
I took a different route as compared to my friends...since they all went out and bought brand new bikes with no endorsements.
#2
If you plan on keeping the bike - then slowly rebuild. Watch ebay for side plastics... often a left or a right will come up clean for a good price. Keep an eye, sometimes people sell whole sets for a good price. What ever you do, don't rush it will cost more.
The speedometer could easily be a loose connection. Under the seat, under the back of the gas tank is a connection... it might be loose. The speedohealer webpage has an image of the cable ends I think.
Levers and bar ends are cheap - and might show up used.
CCT I would do sooner rather than later. That's basic maintenance.
After the basics, ride it a few years. You'll get your money out of it.
The speedometer could easily be a loose connection. Under the seat, under the back of the gas tank is a connection... it might be loose. The speedohealer webpage has an image of the cable ends I think.
Levers and bar ends are cheap - and might show up used.
CCT I would do sooner rather than later. That's basic maintenance.
After the basics, ride it a few years. You'll get your money out of it.
#3
First you probably paid too much if it has that many problems. Especially if the odomoeter is off it would have to be reported that way on the title, which may make it harder to sell the bike when you decide to. I am not sure how much it would be to fix the speedo but if it is not too bad I would fix it up and ride it. I love my CBR and it is a great bike. Oh and I would skip on the new fairing kit for now. Wait until your second bike to get a nicer one. More often than not you will drop your first bike somehow someway.
#4
Funny that you mentioned 'paying too much'.
The speedo stopped working the day AFTER I bought the bike.
Weird thing is, the night that I bought the bike, I took it into the shop and had them replace the battery....and I asked them to check out my speedo, but they wanted to charge me $150 for labor...so I have a feeling that they were cheating me somehow.
The speedo stopped working the day AFTER I bought the bike.
Weird thing is, the night that I bought the bike, I took it into the shop and had them replace the battery....and I asked them to check out my speedo, but they wanted to charge me $150 for labor...so I have a feeling that they were cheating me somehow.
#5
judging by how you only spent 2900...
if it was me in your position i would ride the living **** out of it. then maybe look for an new bike in a couple years.. get your money out of it but try not to drop alot of moeny into it.. i would only rebuild and work on that bike if you plan on having it for years.. but if your already thinking you want a new ride.. just ride the hell outta that bike...
in my opinion
if it was me in your position i would ride the living **** out of it. then maybe look for an new bike in a couple years.. get your money out of it but try not to drop alot of moeny into it.. i would only rebuild and work on that bike if you plan on having it for years.. but if your already thinking you want a new ride.. just ride the hell outta that bike...
in my opinion
#6
Damn sorry to hear that bro. Ive been trying to buy one people saying that they get theres with like 14k miles for 2900. and im like wtf i cant find one for that much, and know i realize why.. Sucks you paid that much for a bike with that many problems. i guess it is true you get what you pay for.
I would honestly just fix it up a little bit and try to make a buck off it.
I would honestly just fix it up a little bit and try to make a buck off it.
#7
#9
Welcome to the club man!! I agree with getting the speedo fixed and new bar ends and levers. As for the cct problem I'd like to offer a cheaper fix than buying a new APE cct.
1)Take your old hydaulic spring actuated cct out. Remove all of that B.S. to where you have just the housing, it will be roughly a cone shape about 3 inches tall.
2)Take that housing to a drill press and CAREFULLY drill right down the center.
3)Then get about 3 1/2 to 4 inches of all thread grind one end smooth kind of rounding off the edges.
4)Tap the housing with the same threads as your all thread. put the all thread into the housing. Then put 2 nuts on the remaining all thread that is extending out the back of the housing.
5)Put your modified cct back into your bike. Turn the all thread that is sticking out the back of the housing until you feel a fair amount of pressure on it.
6)Start your bike and let it get to an idle, it will sound like sheat!! but don't freak just keep tightening the all thread untill the rattle goes away. Once it goes away tighten the two nuts up to the housing tightly!! This will keep the all thread form baking out.
7)Keep an eye...or an ear I guess for the rattle to come back, it probably will a couple times as it settles in, just get in there and snug it up making sure those locking nuts are good and snug before you ride off again.
This was the cheapest thing I've done so far to mine, if you have any questions just ask.
Oh yeah and I'd definetly keep it, if for nothing else then when you get a new ride its good to have it around just in case.
1)Take your old hydaulic spring actuated cct out. Remove all of that B.S. to where you have just the housing, it will be roughly a cone shape about 3 inches tall.
2)Take that housing to a drill press and CAREFULLY drill right down the center.
3)Then get about 3 1/2 to 4 inches of all thread grind one end smooth kind of rounding off the edges.
4)Tap the housing with the same threads as your all thread. put the all thread into the housing. Then put 2 nuts on the remaining all thread that is extending out the back of the housing.
5)Put your modified cct back into your bike. Turn the all thread that is sticking out the back of the housing until you feel a fair amount of pressure on it.
6)Start your bike and let it get to an idle, it will sound like sheat!! but don't freak just keep tightening the all thread untill the rattle goes away. Once it goes away tighten the two nuts up to the housing tightly!! This will keep the all thread form baking out.
7)Keep an eye...or an ear I guess for the rattle to come back, it probably will a couple times as it settles in, just get in there and snug it up making sure those locking nuts are good and snug before you ride off again.
This was the cheapest thing I've done so far to mine, if you have any questions just ask.
Oh yeah and I'd definetly keep it, if for nothing else then when you get a new ride its good to have it around just in case.