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a little help with chain+sprocket swap

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Old 08-22-2013, 02:20 PM
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Default a little help with chain+sprocket swap

hey guys. I'm doing my chain and sprocket swap and have a few questions. PO had -1+2 on the bike before and i was swapping to just -1 front and stock rear. what chain length should i have it at? I bought a chain that was 110 links and i have only removed one link from it. is it better to remove another link so it becomes the stock 108? or would it be better to have 109 and have some leeway when the chain breaks in?

also since its a new chain, the notches on the chain adjuster should be in the area that says "NEW" right?

Thanks in advance
 
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Old 08-22-2013, 02:45 PM
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You have to go to 108.
109 won't link up.
 
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Old 08-22-2013, 04:46 PM
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so each link, inside or out, counts as a link? so i did remove two then. i got the chain on and adjusted it but it isn't even in the "NEW" area. its halfway to the replacement mark
 
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Old 08-22-2013, 05:19 PM
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Each roller is a link. They are in groups of 2.

108 links is 54 little plates.

If you got it to go together, you have an even number.
 
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Old 08-25-2013, 01:34 PM
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hmm seems a bit saggy still. even though i adjusted it for correct sag. maybe its just me
 
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Old 08-25-2013, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 5t341th
hmm seems a bit saggy still. even though i adjusted it for correct sag. maybe its just me
Those 2 shouldn't be in the same sentence lol

I believe it is 1.25"
 
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Old 08-26-2013, 02:59 PM
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Default note about chains

Originally Posted by jeffjones
Those 2 shouldn't be in the same sentence lol

I believe it is 1.25"
The free play on an f4i is 1" to 1 3/8". Means how far you can move the chain up and down with fingers in the middle of the chain with bike in neutral and nothing / nobody on it. Measure it with a tape measure. It isn't uncommon to install a new chain and have to re-adjust it after a couple of miles depending.

I service my chains religously and here is a note. I have found in the past that some chains when nearing the end of their service life begin droning and some aren't so noticeable. Regardless i have adjusted chains only to park them a mile away and see the chain appear loose. In disbelief I adjust again to hear that telltale droning get worse. This normally means the chain is worn or stretched unevenly, not that it is kinked or binding link for link per say. If you put the bike on stands and roll the rear wheel the chain will get loose and tight in different places.
 
Attached Thumbnails a little help with chain+sprocket swap-01.jpg  

Last edited by Bryce Swartzwelder; 08-26-2013 at 09:08 PM. Reason: Typical synapse collision
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:50 PM
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thanks for the inputs guys. it just seems strange to me how it's a new chain and its already adjusted out of the "NEW" area on the adjusters
 
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Old 08-26-2013, 11:59 PM
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Smaller front sprocket makes the adjuster further back. Even though its new, it will still read that it has stretched.

Don't pay too much attention to the sticker now that you've modified the final drive.
 
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