Alright guys.. I know at the moment I'm asking more questions that I am helping.. but I'm new to the F4i, so eventually I'll be caught up.

I installed flushmounts to the front wednesday and I had to wire both "positive" wires together. I think they were orange, and the ground is green. So now the flushmounts stay on in the front and blink when I use my blinkers. This is all good.

My rear blinkers are now on ALL the time. I haven't gotten to mod them yet, so they are constantly on and freaking bright. I don't know how to wire the front blinkers so this doesn't happen but still have them blink.

Every other way I wired the fronts, they would be on, but when I used my blinker they'd just turn off. I wish I had some pictures of how it was wired but if you've done it on your own you know. In the front, for each blinker there are 3 wires. 2 colored ones (one striped, one not) and a green one.

Any suggestions on what to do?

 

I don't know if this helps, but my buddy put on flush mounts to his front also, and his back blinkers are constantly on as well. It sounds like the exact same thing. But he never got it fixed, so I'm not sure how to help. I'm just letting you know you're not alone

 

Lol, thanks. It's just so freakin' bright at night. Thinking about putting flushmounts on the back too until I get an 01-03 tail and then get a fender eleminator for it. The flushmounts will stillbe on in the back, just not so freaking bright.

I may try to post some pictures up later of what I mean..

 

ya, my buddies instrument panel stays lit up too; both arrows are constantly on. If you're doing a fender eliminator i believe they still use the stock tail light and blinkers. I ordered an under tail kit to just integrate the taillights and blinkers. it also cleans it up a lot nicer

 

hey man, theres a whole thread on how to hook up 3 wire signals to 2 wire signals, and eliminate all the problems you just talked about. you use a couple of diodes to keep the power signal from back tracking through the circuit and making ur dash go nuts.... this is the link, PM me if it doesnt work. https://cbrforum.com/forum/how-mechanical-40/convert-2-wire-signals-3-wire-inputs-84998/ I did this on my f4i before i got rid of and it worked perfectly.

 

Hey man, thanks!! That helps. Only problem is, the first one I did I jacked up and cut the wire before the connector.. instead of after.. like a jack ***. I'll take it all apart and re-wire the thing.

What kind of wires do you guys recommend? I use some crappy ones from work..

 

dont worry about the connector, i cut those things clean off when i did mine and hard wired everything. go down to radio shack get the diodes and get the wire there too, and get shrink tubing as well. solder all your connections and seal them all up with the shrink tubing (put on the tubing BEFORE you solder, then heat it up to shrink it over the solder joint), for over kill wrap it all up with a little electrical tape... now you will never have any water issues or bad connection issues. just take the time to do it right the first time.

 

I was told LED flush mounts need an inline resistor for them to work right. Otherwise the flash way too fast, and it causes problems with the rear signals.

 

You need to add diodes to the front turn signals to keep the positive signal of one wire from running to the positive of the other (which is the reason your rear turn signals are acting as running lights now). The link posted above explains it nicely.

You will also need a load resistor or a different turn signal relay to keep your signals flashing at a normal rate. It won't damage the rear turn signals if you let them flash fast, but it will shorten their life span in the long run.