Has anyone removed their flash relay without removing the front fairing?
 

I'm considering changing my relay to see if it would fix a few problems but I really don't want to take off that horrible front fairing again, especially since I'm not sure if this would fix my issues or not. I've taken it off twice and it took hours to put back on both times and it's still not aligned absolutely perfect.

This guy says it's possible but no one confirmed it on this thread.

https://cbrforum.com/forum/f4i-main-...ibility-19617/

I get that its a pain in the ass but I dont personally see the big deal. With all the fairings together it pulls the upper in fine for me, but thats not here or there....

It is possible to do, I have done it, but only to see if I can do it and what not.

You will have to remove your windshield. I went ahead and removed the front fender too for room and leverage area. If you have some long needle nose pliers this would be perfect. The relay drops down into a rubber holder. Its a matter of gettig a light down there, using something like needlenose etc. to grab and pull up on the relay. Next, by holding the relay and trace wiring that comes out from underneath your upper. Or you can use your light and grab and it and pull it out. I dont know how much room you have under your upper like where the relays go, but I have 2 more big bosch relays under mine including the 2 more relays that already go there. The bosches are velcroed to the inside of my headlight housing. I would consider something like this for the remount of the ELFR-1 (if you are getting hte one I told you). If not then you can figure that out.

Its kind of a pain but at the same time not if you are careful. To me, I am comfortable enough to get the upper off and on pretty quick, maybe a little bit of work on it will make it easier for you to get it on and off, I dont know. It can be done though, but it is def. easier with it off. Not to mention you start running the risk of hitting some plastic and what not. Oh and pull your ram covers too, they are just another thing in the way. Good luck.

-Poss

Every time I take it off I damage something... So for me it's more than a pain in the ass. I'll brake a tab, or cause a screw to not line up anymore or something.

I'll give this a shot, it sounds good. My integrated taillight seemed to have gotten worse than it was, and when the signal would come on the opposite side running light would go dim causing a VERY confusing pattern of lights. I ended up just disconnecting the brake light running light for now until I can hopefully fix this with the relay "and my mirror signals too". I have a 2nd brakelight/running light on the license plate and a reflector on my hi-vis helmet so hopefully I will still be visible. I still have signals and brake light, just not the dimmer running light.

More importantly, did you ever get the failing front brake/leaky fork seal issues resolved?

Yep, new fork seals and the guy said my brakes aren't dangerous but that I need new calipers. He said they're clamping down more than they should but they won't suddenly lock up or anything.

I am afraid there may be something else a miss here. I did not have any tail light issues so I cannot speak on that. Do I recall you have another issue with the tail light in a different thread? That seems like a wiring/connection/faulty light issue (which really points to the previous 2). You either have a short somewhere, maybe wires are bound up, maybe current is erroneous at the switch. It def. isnt the safest to run around without a proper brakelight. Try to get it worked out. I would go through the wiring. YOu said it was a cheap buy if I recall and sometimes you just get what you pay for. You should try hardwiring the rear light straight to batt and see if it operates the same way, or brightens up and looks as should. Kind of like how the mirror lights reacted. Dim, on bike, bright from battery. This would narrow your problem and tell you its the light or the wiring. A signal relay isnt going to affect the brake or running lights, integrated or not. But as stated before, it solved the up front dimness by giving correct voltage, so it may be the same for the rear, the test above will determine.

-Poss

I still have brake light, turn signals, and a running light/2nd brake light on my license plate so I think I will be fine. I got my undertail and integrated light for free and the light is a cheapo ebay one. The main brake light still comes on and is just as bright it's just that when the yellow turn signal is on there's not also a red light interfering until you hit the brakes. But when the bright brake light "instead of the dim running light" is on with the turn signal everything looks fine. My running light wiring works perfect for my 2nd brake light so I think it's probably just an issue with this model. The ones I saw on youtube were sometimes confusing too.