Talked to "the shop" in my area...in fact a few exhaust shops told me to go there....

Thay can make/bend any type of exhaust you want. My question is... for the guys with a full system already on.

To keep weight down, what type of metal is yours made of? Whats the size of the piping? Thats all I really need to know... Im looking at about $130 to have everything cut/bent. I'll weld it up at work.

I'm also going to weld in a cut out...to open with the pciii harness, activate at about 7800rpms. It will be loud...but i'm making more hp then torque at that point im re-geared anyway....plenty of torque. I'll let you guys know how things go. and i'll dyno before/after.

 

alright i have to say that this is probably a bad idea. for one there is alot of r&d that goes into that header that is what creates pretty much all the performance of that bike such as low end torque if you happen to make the header the wrong way your bike will run like ***. pretty much all the back pressure is created in the way your header worksso be warned its not as easy as you may think i cant remember what book it was that my buddy who builds race engines for suzuki said that explains it all but there are alot of calculations that go into it anyway just go buy a full system you wont be sorry. at least then all the hard works is done for you and you know its gonna make power not take it away. plus i woouldnt trust any performance bike shop around here to make a header for a inline 4 stroke motor for the main reason there are the flanges that it needs as well as collectors are very hard to make by hand trust me ive tried. anyway hope i helped and god forbit you actually go through with this

 

good for you screw paying for a well engineered and thoroughly tested exhaust systemmade and tweaked specifically to work with your type of bike providing optimum flow and back pressure to increase power without damagingthat oh so expensive motor paying special attention to exactly how the bends and joints affect power output at certain RPMs and create smooth power curve (or at least make attaining a smooth power curve attainable through dyno-tuning) when you can have some car exhaust shop, high school graduate minimum wage kid weld together some scraps of pipe he found in a dumpster somewhere to kind of fit your bike



thumbs up here....



lol when buying an exhaust system your not paying for the materials alone, if you were they would be that cheap. Your paying for the engineering and expertise that goes into the design and manufacturing of the exhaust. Sportbikes are a little more picky about exhausts than cars are. They require good backpressure to keep from screwing the valves up. Maximum flow doesn't mean jack to a motorcycle, a full exhaust system that isn't engineered properly can easily reduce the power of your bike and just as easily damage your engine. Saving a lot of money on an exhaust is great right up until you have to pay twice that savings to fix the damage it causes.

 

ahh beautiful wow couldnt have said it better myself now that being said you can mess with the can a little due to the can isnt really what gives you your backpressure all that much its your header that creates the most backpressure so go ahead buddy im sure i can find you a new motor if you need one just give me a call 1 800 CHEAPASS.

 

LOL...

my f/s is made out of titanium...really keeps the weight down...mandel bends...etc.

 

If you are gonna do it, copy as much as possible from a good systemand keep certain thoughts in mind. Equal length runners are good. Easy turns are good. Big pipes for high RPM power. Long tubes increase scavenging. Thick tubes are good. Sharp turns bad. Mandrel bent tubes good.

I've read some stuff on this kinda stuff and it is complicated, so the copy/modify plan you are working with is a good idea. Take some pics...good luck with the project.

Here is my editted stuff I had to add...

This stuff is complicated, I have two engineering degrees and when you start talking power pulse harmonics and wave fronts and all that kind of crap...jesus that stuff is mind boggling. It is part art and part science and lots of trial and error.

Here is my advice. Buy a system and modify it. Maybe get two mini silencers and work it that way, but ground up header fab doesn't make sense. It will be heavy and probably hurt your performance as well as be too close to bodywork.

Either way, good luck. I hope you prove all us naysayers wrong.

 

Im not cheap. I just dumped $2k into my porsche and about $1k into my bike. I am a welder(SoI save money where I can)and this exhaust shop told me they could create the exact same manifold just larger pipe. They arent an average shop. 10 guys working 8-16 hours a day. They all drag race cars, bikes, boats and quads. The building is over 300 feet long. They can make any bends out of anything. Some of the dyes they have cost $15,000. I know what your saying. I'll to them again on monday.

 

so on what racing circuit does the exhaust shop R&D their F4i exhuasts designs on?

 

Keep in mind exhaust velocities, contrary to what my previous 10 girlfriends said, bigger isn't always better. Without tuning (harmonics)and scavenging (to aid in sucking the old crap out of the cylinder) you will lose low end and maybe not gain any high end, with stock camshafts you need to figure out where the engineers want their torque and HP to peak at, thenyou have the whole exhaust valve size conundrum of the use of bigger valvesmight take you beyond the motor's ability to spin and therefore wouldn't allow you to have any exhaust gas velocity)

Loud doesn't equate to Horsepower. A quick way to learn about this stuff is research headers for a 5.0 mustang. There are so many designs out there that you will be able to see some patterns.

I am curious to hear how this whole PCIII solenoid cutout contraction functions and if it gains HP. I don't want to discourage you from this, but with all time and energy that this project will take, it would be nice if you got what you want and it works well.

Keep us posted.

 

I'm sitting here on the fence trying not to laugh, but I can't take it any more. Do all you people really believe that the exhaust manufacturers R+D every pipe they build for every bike out there??? If you do your kidding your self. If they did, there would be no need for fuel mapping or adding fuel system recalibration. There are way too many bikes for them to do that much R+D. Really think about it and it will make more sense. The factories do the R+D and come to the right part for each bike. They do not advise anyone to put a different system on the bike. Theexhaust manufacturers use the basic design from the factory and taylor their design to fit, use more exotic materials, and alot better looking design, That's all. There are actually a few newer bikes out there that get better HP figures using a stock header with a slipon rather than a full system. The old style R6 was one of them. I hoped this helped!