I have a 2004 cbr F4i without a manual. I have just gotten into bikes a month ago and have a few questions.

1. How soon should I change the oil is it like a car?

2. Does everyone's oil light blink before starting the bike?

3. Whats good tire pressure?

4. Anything else you can think of to make my bike better for the road would help.

 

I attached some pics of my cbr and my buddies kawi 636.

 

change every 4K approximately.
yes, oil light comes on prior to start up then goes away after.
for street riding, keep it high...but really depends on tire pressure.
street, anywhere from 37-41...for track...anywhere from 31-33
as far as making the bike better for the road...clean and lube your chain every 500 miles.
adjust your suspension to your weight...

no, don't see any attachments.

 

I'm a newbee too.. I'm a thick boned person [&o] .. how do I adjust the suspension to my weight?

 

Adjusting suspension to your weight is ultimately pretty simple, but is a two person job. You need one person to measure while the rider sits. Either get a good riding book that explains the process or stop in at a dealership for help.

 

Hi:

Oil is changed every 5000km and the oil filter every 10000. If you live in cold areas, I suggest a 10W40 or 10W50 (I like Motul and Liqui-Moly SEMISYNTHETIC, NEVER under any circumstance SYNTHETIC OIL!!!). If you live in warm areas, you can use 15W50. If your bike has more than 40000 kms, you can already use 20W50 oil.
Lube the chain every 500kms and clean re-lube every 1000kms. Clean with kerosene and a painting brush. MAKE SURE YOU DRY IT WELL before lubricating.

When you turn the key to ON, there are three lights visible: the whole red one on the left (check engine), the green one (neutral) and the red on on the right (Fuel injection). None of them should blink.

I still have the original tyres and my lectures are: Street (32 front/36 rear) Soft enough and maneuverable, less than those could deform the tyre. Track and highway (36 front/40 rear) Hard enough without chimming risk.

To set your suspension correctly, first reset everything as it came from the factory. Then start your own settings taking note of every change you make. Every change you make in a suspension component must be done bit by bit... a whole turn of a screw is useless. It take a while.

If you need further info, let me know. I have both the owner´s and service manuals.

 

Y do you say not to use full synthetic?

 

Hi GRUNT.

First of all, I will try to explain this as easy as my english allows me (I´m from Santiago - Chile).

Full synthetic oil has an additive that works as a low-friction and almost anti-friction component. This is excelent for the engine as it provides a special protection against wear. The really really bad thing, is that the clutch disks loose tightening and friction (a must to transmit the power from the engine to the gearbox and rear wheel) and the whole clutch system start malfunctioning. This, sooner than later, will cause your clutch plates and disks to be replaced.
This is the problem of a unique engine sharing the oil for the engine/gearbox and clutch.

Also, NEVER use Synthetic oil in a NEW BIKE. Specially if the oil contains MOLIBDENUM. This is because the same reason described above. ¿Why Molibdenum?
A new engine must have a special treatment during its first 1000-1500km so the engine/metal parts fit correctly and adjust to each others. If you take a look to a new metal part, debris have to be ¿worn? (past tense of wear) metal against metal. If any irregular surface remains, it has to be ¿worn again?
If you use synthetic oil, these irregular surfaces will not allow the metal parts wear and adjust or fit correctly to each other. What does Molibdenum do? It covers the surface with a thin layer of this component, so you will never have enough friction between the parts to wear the new metals as they should.

That´s the difference between a tight, rapid response, nervous engine and a sloppy one. Like a lazy horse and a stallion.

Hope I was clear enough.
Best regards

 

Thanks for the response.
I have never heard this before.
I will take it under advisement.

I work In a lab (we are an aluminum company) and have lots of lubrication experts and metallurgists.
I will see if they agree with you.

I ran regular oil when i first got the bike before switching to full synthetic.
Maybe I will concider switching to semi.

Thanks again for the information

 

Just spoke with a couple of my riding buddies at work (blackbird and R1) and they both use semi synthetic for the same reasons Motodollar stated.

Maybe its time to switch