I am new on riding motorcycles and want to learn how often i should apply and what kind of product are very good to apply to my CBR F4I.

 

you should always apply generous amounts of lean combined with a healthy dose of throttle.

 

Step 1. READ THE F!@#$%^ MANUAL: it will give you all of the maintenance intervals, what honda recomends for fluids, lubes, etc.
Now that thats out of the way.
tire pressure - check it every weekend
chain tension - check it every 500miles or so
chain cleaning/waxing - "Motul" chain cleaner and a grub brush, rag it off, quick ride to warm up the chain, liberal amounts of "chainwax" or "Dupont teflon multi-use spray" I do this every weekend, but I ride a lot
Oil change - every 8000miles according to the manual, but I do them sooner, like 4-5k, depending on my oils color & feel - I use Honda filters and synthetic motorcycle oil, has to be motorcycle specific oil, do not use automotive oil it will ruin your clutch.
air filter - every 12k miles (manual) I use a honda element, there are a couple aftermarket ones, but you wont notice any real gains from them.
sprockets & chain - 20k or as needed, DID & RK are what honda recomends
coolant - every few seasons, or replace it at 24k, I use Honda HP coolant
brake pads - inspect frequently, most people replace them at 1/2 wear point for safety sake, EBC HH pads are what I use
Brake fluid - DOT 4 fluid, I like Galfer, there are other options, I'm doign an overhaul on my brake system this spring, depends on how your brakes feel and how your fluid looks, every 12k miles replace it
brake lines - I'm doing an overhaul so I'm installing Speigel SS lines, HEL and Galfer are good brands too, I figured I was in there may as well, also these lines are 10yrs old.
Spark plugs - every 16k replace them, NGK apparently makes good plugs; I need to do mine again soon
Valve clearance check - 16k miles its supposed to be checked
CCTL - will rattle by 16k miles, replace it with the stock one or an APE manual

Hope I covered the bulk of it for you, look in your manual or download one. If you need a manual I can email you one for a 2001 F4i, PM me your email address (the F4i will be the same as far as the manual is concerned regardless of year)

welcome aboard, the F4i is a well rounded bike.

 

How often do i need to change oil and what kinds are the best for my CBR600F4I?

 

Hey. Thank you very much man. I bought this bike used and didn't get a manual.
This will help me a lot.

 

send me your email address via PM and I'll email oyu a copy of the manual for a 2001 - it will cover all the basics and intervals for all F4i's since the only real change over the years was going from a split seat to a banana seat.

 

Here's a copy of a post I did for another new/used bike owner. It covers,
what in my opinion, are the basics to assuring your ride is up to snuff.
Some is a little specific to that post but read as a general guide of issues to address,
some good insight into the over-all points on a bike...

First thing get a stand for the rear, doesn't need to be a super-uber, even the cheap
ones will do the job. But get something, trust me on this. ;-)

Check the fork seals, look for signs of 'weep' around the seals. Pop the caps and
change the fork fluid. Don't need to spend a lot of time here, if there are no obvious
issues.

Do a medium, over-haul on the brakes, i.e. if the seals/pads are all fine, ignore
them. However, definetly swap the fluid, and re-pack the hanger pins. Give the lines
a once-over for cracks/brittle (consider the SS upgade, at some point, great bang for
buck, there).

Moving on, check the steering-head bearings for any free-play, another cheap
upgrade...go to rollers for the stem bearings.

Inspect the entire wiring harness. Look for frayed/worn/rubs etc. Grab a can of
contact-cleaner and di-electric grease. Pull each connector, in turn and clean/pack
them after an inspection looking for frays/burnt-pins/melted-warped plastic. If you
find any bad/marginal connectors, check what-ever they connected to, for any possible
issues. Double eyeballs on the r/r, these are a known issue. Don't neglect inspecting
the switches, either. Fix/re-run any botched previous modifications to the harness.
The harness is a crucial, oft-neglected system and cheap on the pocket-book, if you
do this one. Throw a couple of extra fuses under the seat, while you're there.

Scope out all of the vacume lines and various hoses, looking for the usual suspects.

Probably need a new fuel filter, just for the piece of mind. You might drain the tank,
pull the petcock and clean the screens on it. Pour about a quart of kerosene in the
tank, swish and drain to get rid of any accumulated sediment.

If the bike is running decent leave the bottom-end alone. So you should be fine there.

The cct should be monitored, there is a chance it's not doing it's job. A little rattle
at lower rpm's is ok, but it should be more 'whirr' than bb rattle. If it gets any louder,
that'll be a sign.

Even if it's running pretty smoothly, you might consider running some Seafoam through
the system. Eliminating any varnish in the carbs, is never a bad thing. If you're getting
any stumbles/hesitation, idling or pulling, you might go ahead and do a good cleaning
on the carbs.

Pretty much, everything I've suggested here is mostly labor-cost not parts/supplys.
In other words, low cost if you have the time.

I hope this gives you a few directions to go, Ern

 

Good info Thank you.

 

Subscribed, good info, thanks, can't wait for riding season!

 

Yeah, definitely some good tips here. I may be getting a F4i soon as well, so I'm sure I'll be back here!