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F4i Starts, won't maintain idle FI light comes on and dies

  #11  
Old 12-08-2017, 07:00 AM
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Yes what your left with is present faults, If the IAT is still showing that could just be a case of taking it out cleaning and putting it back, but check all these connectors that are showing faults
 
  #12  
Old 12-09-2017, 08:18 PM
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Just to clarify i now get no faults showing after resetting, even after trying to start it (and keep it running) a few times.
I also checked the IAT connections and they look clean
 
  #13  
Old 12-10-2017, 12:58 AM
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Hi , have you checked spark plugs to see how rich it's running, with it being an ex stunt bike those guy's do some modifications to the bike like Pair solenoid , Clean air mod's and airbox mod's, as regards the TPS you can check for Continuity and voltage ,if that's OK have a look at the mods PO might have done with air . Heres a video to check for voltage , you can back probe the connector
 
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Old 12-13-2017, 06:25 AM
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Haven't checked the spark plugs yet, but i did replace them when i bought the bike (bike wouldn't run until i replaced them).
I checked the TPS but not 100% sure i did it right, i put tester probes into the plug that plugs into the TPS and got a reading of 4.84, this stayed constant (MAYBE fluctuate .01) when opening the throttle.

I also noticed a couple of things, this plug that's around the back of the guage/speedo cluster was unplugged, i plugged it back in and was able to start the bike (slight chance it was coincidence, but i doubt that). Bike will start most times now, but once i ride for a little she cuts out again with the FI light on. Anyone know what this plug is?


And i found this plug without anything going into it, it sits on the left side by the left most spark plug, would love confirmation that on a normal F4i there's nothing going into it.



Thanks for the replys CaBaRet
 
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Old 12-13-2017, 06:47 AM
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The first connector with the Green ,White and Red/White is the Bank Angle Sensor, if it was undone and your bike wont start ,that is the cause, stunt riders will bypass this connector and the BAS, can you tell us what are the colours running to the second connector , as regards TPS voltage check you should leave it plugged in and back probe the connection, Green/Orange and Red/Yellow should get 0.4 and 4.8 at WOT
 

Last edited by CaBaRet; 12-13-2017 at 07:11 AM.
  #16  
Old 12-15-2017, 04:47 AM
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on the second connector there are 2, red/black and black/white.
Thanks for the extra info on the TPS, but by 'back probing', does that mean i am pushing the multimeter probe's into the back of the TPS housing plug? can this cause damage?
 
  #17  
Old 12-15-2017, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by donkeyf4i
on the second connector there are 2, red/black and black/white.
Thanks for the extra info on the TPS, but by 'back probing', does that mean i am pushing the multimeter probe's into the back of the TPS housing plug? can this cause damage?
If your worried about the back probing get 2 paper clips they are smaller than your Multimeter Probes , just insert the 2 paper clip wires into the connector and take the reading off them, as regards the other 2 wires on the second connector , is it Red/Blue or Black/Red as the Red/Blue one would be for your #3 coil, are all your coils attached to the harness
 

Last edited by CaBaRet; 12-15-2017 at 06:47 AM.
  #18  
Old 12-16-2017, 10:59 PM
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Nice, i used paper clips. got reading of .5 closed, 4.39 open, they are within range though right?
The second connector is definitely black/white and red/black
Yeah all the spark coils are attached.

i traced back the tether kill switch wiring and came across this:

That connector is in the front on the left. The tether kill switch has 2 wires, white and black, the green wire on the harness is piggy backed to the black, and the red/white on the harness is going to the white. The white/black on the harness is disconnected.
Do you know what these wires do, or the previous owners logic? ive had a look at the wiring diagram in the manual but cant quite find the plug. I believe green is ground.

It also seems like while ridding, before it cuts out with the FI light, the dash (and maybe the lights) flicker slightly, makes me think its some kind of power cutting issue
 
  #19  
Old 12-17-2017, 12:27 AM
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Hi the readings you got on the TPS are spot on , the harness you are showing is the headlight harness, what looks like where he did the bypass on the BAS with the Red/White and Green, the White/Black also goes to the BAS, they should be made good in order for the BAS to work properly
 
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  #20  
Old 01-18-2018, 04:19 AM
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Thought i should update this, i took the bike to someone who knows what they are doing and the (main) issue was a bad Fuel pump, in hindsight it didnt sound as good/strong as it should while priming.
I was pretty fixated on it being an electrical problem, Thanks anyway for the guidance CBR
 

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