Ya we checked all the fuses and even the relay's. They are all good

 

well im almost out of ideas, let me look in my manual to cross reference this...
ok your gonna need a voltage meter and a peak voltage adapter
then take the meter, stick the prongs in the ignition coil connection in the harness
turn on bike and start it and see if your getting a reading
if you are then you need to go to each coil and check there
but you need to start it each time you check to get a proper reading
your peak voltage should be 100 volts minimum
all this will tell you if the problem is the ignition harness or if you have a bad coil

then replace the parts and you should be good to go

if your not getting a reading at the harness you need to check the cpu
which is another issue

 

here is one more thing i would do a complete once over and make sure nothing is unplugged or lose

 

Aight thanks alot for your time dude. I'm gonna check everything over real good again. check all the coils and connections. I'l lecha know I get her started or not.

 

any luck??

 

Hey still working on the bike. Havn't had a lot of free time but I have figured our that power is getting to all the coils, but no ignition signal is being sent...so I need to do some more testing to figure out whats going on. Quick thing my battery is not 100% i charge it over night and then I hook it up to a car battery when I'm trying to crank the engine to test for spark, but if the I dont hook the bike battery up to a car battery then my bike dies after like two cranks. I'm going to need to replace the battery soon but my question is could that possibly be why I'm not getting spark at the plugs?

 

Yeah. Go get a new battery then get back with us.

 

dont buy a battery yet if you haven't already. any car has more than enough power to run the bike. just disconnect the neg on your bike the hook the pos jumper cable to your battery and the neg to the frame anywhere. now its on just the car and takes your bike battery out of the equasion. next thing, your bike wont even crank if the kill switch was on, it was in gear with the kickstand down, or in gear without pulling the clutch. your bikes computer is killing the spark. it may be an unplugged or BAD sensor be it AIT, MAP, cam or crank position sensor ect. you may have fried you comp with the HID's. i've seen it happen before. they take more power which gives that "freak jolt" to the computer and then nothing but headaches after that. the easiest check is if you have a buddy with an f4i and pop his comp on and see if she fires. if not, probably good news there's probably a sensor giving a wrong reading to the comp telling the bike not to run. i've never seen 4 coils go bad at once and even if you only had 1 good one you would be hearing it at least try to fire.

 

Ok I'm leaning towards a bad ecu here. Because my bike started fine in january and then I put one HID on, turned the bike on for literally 2 seconds just to see how it looked, then shut it off and put the stock bulb back in. Now she wont start. I was looking at my manual for the bike and I did a ground test on 3 wires on the ecu. 2 of them were good but one had 0 continuity. Also the voltage for the ignition pulse generator is below spec (.3v compared to the .7v spec). Not entirely sure what all this means but I'm going to get a new battery and talk to my honda shop and see if they can test my ecu. Hopefully I can get this figured out soon because its getting warmer around here, gotta get out there on two wheels soon or ima go crazy!

 

Aight so I was doing some more tests and from the ecu to the coils i'm getting a battery voltage reading (about 13 volts) and then when I crank the engine I am supposed to get a reading of 100v minimum, but not so for me the voltage actually drops to about 11-12v.
Also like I said before the voltage for the ignition pulse generator is .4v (spec is .7v). When im checking the voltage for the pulse generator do I check AC voltage or DC voltage? cuz DC is .4v but AC is 1.1 volts, and if it is AC volts im checking then that means the voltage is within spec and that indicates the generator is bad I believe. I also checked the resistance of the IPG and it was 500 ohms with key on engine off then when cranked the resistance went to 1000 ohms.
And the ground and power wires all checked out good for the ecu just so ya know.