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F4i Bogs at WOT. Could use the expertise here

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  #11  
Old 03-10-2016, 02:19 PM
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Now that I think about it. When I was lining up the cams they were really hard to get to line up flush with the cylinder head. Maybe the exhaust is off by one tooth, that would explain the loss of power and the timing is retarded. I'll double check, post a picture, and get some input. Have any of you found a good method for lining up the cams when reinstalling them with the chain. I was reading somewhere that you might need to let the offending can be slightly below the surface (I.e. Not flush) and then it will straighten out as you tighten the camholder cover/tighten the CCT ( I have a manual CCT).
 
  #12  
Old 03-10-2016, 07:00 PM
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I'm hoping you're wrong because I went off memory as to my cam shaft placement when I put it back in my bike. I knew almost exactly how the lines were, and where the lobes stuck out as per what the manual said, but now you're getting me all worried too Mine idles perfectly after the TB sync, and seems to rev without hesitation, but I'll be putting it through the wringer tomorrow since it's done in the shop, insured, and it's going to be 8 degrees which is plenty for me!

All I did really was take note of the #1 position it has you move everything to in the manual, with the little T line denoting TDC, and where the lines on my cams were when it came time to remove them. The service manual shows where the lobes ought to approximately be, in addition to the IN/EX lines being flush with the head of the block. Double check if you're worried, although the fact that the idle seems silky smooth and it revs up fine is kind of strange to me. I'd imagine that if valves were mis timed you'd have grenaded your engine, or had it sound like you're running on less cylinders.
 

Last edited by Zealot; 03-10-2016 at 07:04 PM.
  #13  
Old 03-10-2016, 09:11 PM
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Ok so here's what I found when I did some digging. The in and ex marks were more or less lined up with each other but when I was reassembling I hadn't set TDC correctly. I used the T mark not the vertical line next to it which is the actual timing mark. Like a Buffoon. So when I lined it up so it's actually at TDC the ex mark is slightly above: F4i Bogs at WOT. Could use the expertise here-photo581.jpg and the in mark slightly below: F4i Bogs at WOT. Could use the expertise here-photo335.jpg.

Before I proceed, I'd like to know if This may cause any issues. The whole cam timing/kissing Pistons thing has me slightly worried but I'd like to get some more input before rebuilding and starting her up. I'm obviously going to recheck clearance and do a compression test but do y'all think this could have caused permanent damage? The bike idled fine and pulled smoothly up to 6k while it was in this condition so I'm thinking not but I'd love your opinions.
 
  #14  
Old 03-10-2016, 11:58 PM
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You should be fine. One tooth won't cause damage.
 
  #15  
Old 03-11-2016, 12:28 AM
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Well, improperly set cam timing could certainly do it. If you did all your valve adjustments wrong, I'd check the clearances again for sure.
 
  #16  
Old 03-11-2016, 07:38 AM
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Haha Awesome zealot . I'll do that tonight or tomorrow morning and see how it goes. Thanks for the advice. One quick question: will I need to redo the TB sync?
 
  #17  
Old 03-11-2016, 01:46 PM
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Re-assemble correctly and then do a compression check before running if your worried about valves hitting pistons, but you should be fine.
 
  #18  
Old 03-12-2016, 02:30 PM
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Well thanks for all your help guys and gals. I put her back together and she runs like a dream. For anyone reading this in the future. If you're having bogging issues after any valve/head work (valve clearance, CCT swap etc) make sure your timing is correct before proceeding.
 
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