F4i Bogs at WOT. Could use the expertise here
#11
Now that I think about it. When I was lining up the cams they were really hard to get to line up flush with the cylinder head. Maybe the exhaust is off by one tooth, that would explain the loss of power and the timing is retarded. I'll double check, post a picture, and get some input. Have any of you found a good method for lining up the cams when reinstalling them with the chain. I was reading somewhere that you might need to let the offending can be slightly below the surface (I.e. Not flush) and then it will straighten out as you tighten the camholder cover/tighten the CCT ( I have a manual CCT).
#12
I'm hoping you're wrong because I went off memory as to my cam shaft placement when I put it back in my bike. I knew almost exactly how the lines were, and where the lobes stuck out as per what the manual said, but now you're getting me all worried too Mine idles perfectly after the TB sync, and seems to rev without hesitation, but I'll be putting it through the wringer tomorrow since it's done in the shop, insured, and it's going to be 8 degrees which is plenty for me!
All I did really was take note of the #1 position it has you move everything to in the manual, with the little T line denoting TDC, and where the lines on my cams were when it came time to remove them. The service manual shows where the lobes ought to approximately be, in addition to the IN/EX lines being flush with the head of the block. Double check if you're worried, although the fact that the idle seems silky smooth and it revs up fine is kind of strange to me. I'd imagine that if valves were mis timed you'd have grenaded your engine, or had it sound like you're running on less cylinders.
All I did really was take note of the #1 position it has you move everything to in the manual, with the little T line denoting TDC, and where the lines on my cams were when it came time to remove them. The service manual shows where the lobes ought to approximately be, in addition to the IN/EX lines being flush with the head of the block. Double check if you're worried, although the fact that the idle seems silky smooth and it revs up fine is kind of strange to me. I'd imagine that if valves were mis timed you'd have grenaded your engine, or had it sound like you're running on less cylinders.
Last edited by Zealot; 03-10-2016 at 07:04 PM.
#13
Ok so here's what I found when I did some digging. The in and ex marks were more or less lined up with each other but when I was reassembling I hadn't set TDC correctly. I used the T mark not the vertical line next to it which is the actual timing mark. Like a Buffoon. So when I lined it up so it's actually at TDC the ex mark is slightly above: and the in mark slightly below: .
Before I proceed, I'd like to know if This may cause any issues. The whole cam timing/kissing Pistons thing has me slightly worried but I'd like to get some more input before rebuilding and starting her up. I'm obviously going to recheck clearance and do a compression test but do y'all think this could have caused permanent damage? The bike idled fine and pulled smoothly up to 6k while it was in this condition so I'm thinking not but I'd love your opinions.
Before I proceed, I'd like to know if This may cause any issues. The whole cam timing/kissing Pistons thing has me slightly worried but I'd like to get some more input before rebuilding and starting her up. I'm obviously going to recheck clearance and do a compression test but do y'all think this could have caused permanent damage? The bike idled fine and pulled smoothly up to 6k while it was in this condition so I'm thinking not but I'd love your opinions.
#18
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AlexTheUkrainian
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10-14-2009 08:02 AM