It fixed one problem. Not showing open circuit injector #3 anymore since I have it pinned right. Still no start. Throwing F1 code 19 which says in my clymer manual that it open circuit ignition pulse generator

 

Guess I'll be running those test you sent when I get a chance

 

I did one test on pin 22 the manual said and was getting little over 8 volts. It said anything under 7 wasn't good so gotta see what's next

 

So right now everything has been good until the small r/w wire at relay I'm getting OL on meter and should be 0. At the green on BAS I'm getting 40.1 resistance and G with r/w on BAS also getting 40.1 resistance and should get zero

 

Also at pink wire from ignition and ECU it was showing 10.7 volts instead of 9

 

Ok, here's your main problem with why ECU's not priming pump... it think's bike is crashed and laying flat on ground...

1. Follow grn wire from BAS socket to where it connects to harness, then follow grn to where it's clamped to earth point on frame. Disconnect and sand that connector and frame so there's no corrosion. Retest resistance of grn wire at BAS socket to earth. Should be 0-ohms.

2. test resistance at BAS itself between red/wht and grn terminals in upright position. If not 0-ohms/full-continuity, shake it around and test again. If still not 0-ohms, BAS is dead and needs to be replaced.

3. Do you have BAS in place when testing resistance of red/wht at stop-relay socket to earth? If not, plug it in and test. On some bikes BAS arrow faces up. On others, it faces down. Which way is yours pointing?

4. test resistance end-to-end of red/wht wire from BAS socket to engine-stop relay. ohms = ???

 

I thought you said it was 9v before?
You skipped step?

What's colour of wires at ignition-switch connector where it plugs into harness?
Slide phone or mirror under ignition-switch and get photo.

Someone really messed up this replacement harness. Sure your previous one isn't better?

 

Hey, thanks for getting back with me. I feel I'm getting so close. Continuity between red/white from BAS to engine stop relay is good. Yes, BAS is in the upright position with arrow pointing up. It's also connected to harness when doing the test. I just tested with step 3 unplugged BAS and checked and getting no continuity or resistance between red/w and g
Thanks

 

Yup, you're making great progress!

That's testing on BAS itself, not harness right? No connection between those terminals means BAS is dead. Seems we're making negative progress as BAS was working earlier:

We might want to test your previous harness. It might actually be in better condition. Verify ECU connectors have correct wire-colours in correct place. If so, I'd swap it back in since we have no idea how many additional errors you'll find in this replacement one. Do same test with previous harness to compare:

1. measure resistance of grn wire terminal at BAS socket to other end chassis-ground grn wire that bolts to frame. ohms = ???

 

Yes, on BAS itself unplugged. Yes, it will trip the kill switch if plugged in and turn upside down but I guess it's possible something internal that's messed up on it cause I tested it 4 different times to make sure when I unplugged it.