Ive gotten out of bad situations before while coasting in neutral, I just shifted to the right gear and got out of harms way. bike parked of course always leave it in gear,

estate4life doesnt the clutch and clutch springs wear out faster when doing what you do?

while your at a light that just turned red you always leave it in gear? Holding the clutch that long isnt it bad for the clutch/springs?

 

I barely read half of the posts but I wanted to put in my 2 cents, especially since it doesn't look like anyone touched on it.

I've been using a clutch for years in a car, and I almost always engine brake/down shift as I'm approaching red lights and stop signs. I'm very efficient at rev matching be it car or bike, mostly due to experience. If you don't have the experience, I don't suggest you do it all the time or situations where you're likely to lock up the rear or make a quick stop.

The reason I do it is to make sure that I'm in the best rpm range and gear for any situation coming my way be it to slam on the brakes or to take off quickly.

If you really want to think about it as well, how is a relatively slow down on the RPMs while engine braking any worse on the engine then being at say 9k RPMs and grabbing the clutch to brake? In this case the engine immediately drops from 9k to 1.5k (assuming 1.5k @ idle) and there is no load on the engine, where as engine braking would drop from 9k to 1.5k over a few hundred feet as the bike slows itself down.

I've only been riding for 3 1/2 years, but using a clutch in a car for 15 years has taught me plenty. I can't tell you how many arguments I've seen over engine braking on a bike since I started riding, but honestly, where's the proof that it's hard on the bike one way or the other?

 

The original poster seems to have developed his own conclusion, disregarding the advice that most of us have given in this thread. So it doesn't really matter.

 

No, the clutch springs are made of high tensile compression steel. Similar material as they make those split lock washers. Those are tested under load and will recover to it's original shape. As clutch wear? If you think just hanging the clutch will wear it down... It won't because your not engaging any fiction. Wear happens during a hard excel...peel out. When you revvvvv it hard and engage the clutch plate slow...like if you're doing a burn out. Also riding hard, at high RPM will too...so if you're so worry about wearing down your bike, just ride most conservative. Don't push the bike so hard...but where is the fun in that? Might as well ride a scooter...LOL.....we are only sharing our experiences here to help some new riders, how you ride and conclusion how to ride is best fit you. What I've stated, that it's controversial. Every rider & their experiences is unique...therefore I try to absorb everyone's point of view, thus not challenge them. There is nothing wrong with putting bike in neutral and check out that chick at a stop light... I just don't coast in neutral....

 

dveldtf4i, rev matching was never an issue for me, my switch to a 600 though is probably what screwed me over because on the 250 I am use to rev matching at lower rpms and not lugging, while on the 600 revmatching at the same revs I did on the 250 caused the bike to lug. so thats solved for me

engine braking, if good at revmatching Ive learned through this thread does not cause too much damage if done right ( and as others have stated lightly tap the brake for the light for safety issues )

 

dveldtf4i
Can you rephrase this for me? lol I did not understand the last part:

If you really want to think about it as well, how is a relatively slow down on the RPMs while engine braking any worse on the engine then being at say 9k RPMs and grabbing the clutch to brake? In this case the engine immediately drops from 9k to 1.5k (assuming 1.5k @ idle) and there is no load on the engine, where as engine braking would drop from 9k to 1.5k over a few hundred feet as the bike slows itself down.

 

^ this lol

 

so is the general consensus just just use the f/r brake, and if skilled enough to engine brake at same time? Thats what im seeing

 

Think jamming down the freeway @ 80 mph in 6th gear ~ 7k rpm, then just pull in the clutch. The RPMs will drop immediately vs just letting off the throttle and letting the RPMs wind down as the bike slows down.

 

letting the rpm's wind down shouldnt affect the bike too badly right? if done over the bikes lifetime. except wasting a little more gas