Hi,
I'm kinda new to the board, been watching for awhile, had my bike since summer, an 02' with 12K mi. like new. Had several other bikes before. My question is, I hear the 2002 F4i was detuned versus the 2001 F4i pending the arrival of the 03' RR. So, if this indeed true, what exactly were the changes. Is it as simple as changing the 02 ECU for an 01'? Can a Power Commander with ignition mapping correct enough for this? Or is it cams and compression?Thanks

Ed Teller
2002 F4i
M4 high mount
PC IIR
K&N filter
Galfer lines F&R, EBC pads
undertail, hugger, flush mount signals

 

I heard that too. I have an '02 I also have an extra ECU but, I don't know if it's an '01 or '02. The #'s are different. Got it off a guy that got it off a guy. so I'm scared to try it on. Maybe fry something or something. Anyway, I wish someone that knew would post. Have any of you heard of the "pair reed mod"? Doesn't cost a thing and 3 dyno proven rear wheel horse power. Big difference!I'll post how to if anyone is interested. Maybe ya'll are sayin' "Pair Reed Mod? Who hasn't heard of that one?"

 

I heard i'ts a 10 horse difference. The '01 is 107 HP and the '02 is 97.

 

oh dang...i would too like the know the answer. as far as specs, everything that i've read have said they're the same...just the tires and chain were different and some 02's had the J22 CCTL...
also, note that many 02s were built early in 01...

10 HP difference is like cali vs. non-cali bike...

but the y/b in 02 yielded crazy HP more than any other years.

 

O.K. you lost me. What is a J22 CCTL ? And What's y/b mean?

 

Okay, what's the 'pair reed mod' ? is it removing something in the airbox?

Ed Teller

 

The pair reed valve introduces fresh filtered air into the exhaust ports to allow for a more complete combustion of fuel. It is located behind the center triple tree nut in the crook of the frame. Lift the fuel tank to access it. You can either pull the pair reed valve completely and replace it with a T or leave the valve in place and use it . ( I prefer the replacement method because it takes the electrical connector, which keeps the valve closed at start up, out of the loop. Although, I left the original valve in place at first and replaced it with a plumbing T a month later and noticed no difference in performance.) There are an electrical connector and three hoses. Two of these hoses go straight down to the engine valve cover and the third goes from the PRV to the air box. There is one other hose by itself and not connected to the PRV that goes from the engine valve cover to the airbox. this is the Positive Crankcase Ventilation hose. Pull this PCV hose out completely and plug the hole in the airbox. Now, the third hose from the PRV to the airbox is disconnected from the airbox end (plug the hole in the airbox) and reconnected to PCV port where the fourth hose was removed from. One more time condensed; Leave the two hoses going from the PRV down to the engine valve cover alone. Remove the PCV hose. Pull the hose going from the PRV to the air box off of the air box and re-route it to the PCV port. The hose that was going from the PCV to the air box is removed completely. This creates a crankcase scavenging system like on dragbikes and dragsters. You remember seeing hoses on dragsters going from the valve covers to the headers? Dynoed four times throughout one neutral weather day, created 3 RWHP.

 

That was supposed to be "3 extra RWHP"

 

No way, please pass over what you've been smokin!

HP difference is 1 or 2 ponies at most.

The J22 is the CCTL model number that superceded the previous model (J21?). y/b = yellow/black.....but we all know PURPLE gets the most horses :P

 

yes...so basically induce fresh air instead of recirculated unburnt gases...

y/b is yellow and black...j22 is the older model of the cam chain tensioner lifter...j23 is the new one, but both are crap...but won't kill you!