2k1 cbr600 f4i

First the history:

My bike has been having a few problems with fuel, nothing big until now. My F1 light has been coming off and on for a while just haven't had the ability to fix it yet.

It started out as a irregularity with the rpms. My bike stopped autochoking when cold. It would idle from cold at the warm 1.3-1.5k, if not lower. When it would idle at 500-1k there would be a greasy, fuel-ish smell from the exhaust. The exhaust still came out clear however, with no undue smoke.

Often when pulling the clutch when coming to a stop, once the engine revs down to idle, the rpms sit at like 500 and slowly rebuild to 1.3-1.5k. When it is in this phase, it backfires often when the clutch is pulled. The bike would do that for several stops and then just run normal for no apparent reason. If I opened the throttle hard and go at a faster speed, this would sometimes alleviate the issue and it'd idle normally again. This would only happen if the F1 light didn't come on. When the F1 light was on the bike would run beautifully, always idling at the right rpms and soooometimes choking correctly when cold.

Another issue that popped up was in the throttle response. There would be times when I would pull the throttle and it would delay for several seconds before jerking in response and bucking forward.


About 4-5 months ago, the sound of the fuel pump priming started changing and then a bit later no longer was heard. Every so often, maybe 1 in 50 times of turning to ON, it would make its whir. About 2 months ago, I never heard the priming ever again and the bike started being a bit temperamental in starting. It started hesitating and over time would stop igniting the first try and would only do it the second.


The F1 light has also stopped coming on anymore since about a month ago



My final piece of evidence is the recent incident I had on the highway. I was going along on the highway (80mph) and all of a sudden throttle response completely died and it started revving down and obviously I started to slow, then the throttle came back and I thought I was ok. Then it died again for a shorter time came back to life. About 3-4 miles later my bike started bucking violently if I had the throttle open, phonetically it sounded like ennnhhh--------ennnnh----ennnnhhhh. It was very regular and periodic. It felt like if I was strongly blipping the throttle from completely closed to hard rev.

I pulled over and turned the bike off, and tried to restart it. As usual no priming sound. It would turn over but would not fire, so I do not believe it is the battery causing the inability to start up.



I tried searching around forums for these symptoms and I've come to believe either the fuel pump itself or the wiring of the fuel pump.

Any advice? Should I get a 70 dollar fuel pump replacement (its the entire assembly) off ebay, or get an oem fuel pump (just the pump) for 50?

Or perhaps you believe it's a whole different issue altogether?

 

your OEM fuel pump will cost you more like $254, and the whole assembly $340.
you're probably talking aftermarket or used, and i wouldn't trust used.
to me it sounds like you have intermittent current going to your fuel pump. but this could be checked hopefully easily by proping up your tank and getting at that fuel pump connector.
turn key off> prop up tank> unplug connector> pull back insulation to find out green and brown wire> brown+ green-> put multimeter leads on wires, turn key and have run switch on, should have battery voltage.
if you do, be careful not to disturb the bike and turn it off, plug the fuel pump in and turn it back on, see if it primes, if it doesnt, its bad and maybe its internals were intermittent.
the choke not working is a different story, you may need to set your idle higher, on the left side there is a black thumb screw type thing for that. you should also check the FI codes.

my bike only chokes around 1.5 but idle's around 1.3 so im thinking it has a ecu issue or a bad sensor if it doesnt go off fluid temperature. im actually thinking it doesnt choke itself at all. when it first fired up after repairing it choked at the proper level. then the fuel pressure regulator let fuel shoot through my exhaust and it never choked again

 

I check OEM and yeah the whole assembly is in the 400's but just the pump itself without any other parts was around 50. The little cylinder part.

I'm going off of bikebandit.com

But wouldn't an intermittent current still allow the bike to start, if hesitantly?

My bike is completely dead right now, doesnt even sound like it tries to start, all it does is turn over but no actual firing.

 

we'll i would say thats a good thing, you probably have spark as well, it really isnt hard at all to check your fuel pump wire's.
remove the 2 ram air covers with a phillips screwdriver, take the seat off by peeling up the back two corners, and getting to those bolts.
then the gas tank bolts all 4 of them, if it isn't around half full it may tip over, but prop it up on the rear shock absorber and make sure the fuel line isn't too stressed.
i only say intermittent because it runs sometimes, because without a fuel pump the injectors, to my understanding, would not be able to get fuel from the fuel rail since its not based on the engine sucking it in like carburetors.
if you are interested in buying OEM parts, i must say the cheapest i found was 2wheelpros.com
if you want to see if it has spark without pulling the plugs, you can take off the top of the airbox and spray some sea foam or something non damaging to plastic that is combustible into each hole, turn it over and open the butterfly valves with your throttle and it should get a shot of life.

 

Well it use to run sometimes. It doesn't run at all anymore. The bike never started again after the incident on the highway. I'll be inspecting it and taking it apart this weekend. I need to find a friend with a multimeter, I'm a college student (low funds) and I'm still building up my collection of tools.

But with this info and info I've collected around the web from various bike forums, it seems that either the fuel pump itself is down and out, or the current/power to it is shorted/dead.

I'll keep this updated periodically as I diagnose the problem. I'll take several pictures this weekend as I inspect underneath the tank. Thanks!

 

did you ever find out what the issue was on your bike.. i have the 01 f4i. my issue is that it starts and idles fine at normal idle but i feel like the fuel pump whines alot constantly and once and a while when it prices when i turn the key to on.. it makes a clicky electronic sound then the bikes still starts and runs fine.. the issue is... when im in first and hit the throttle.. she goes.. to about 9 then still winds out but with no more pull until at -10,000rpm or so then the pull comes back and it flys to 14grand no problem why am i having this short area of loss of power... could it be my fuel pump dieing and at that range its jus not pulling enuf fuel...but then why would i gain it back shortly after? im not sure about 2 3 4th ect..as id be going to quick at that point im just wondering in first why it does this and if the whine and chug clicky sound is a symptom of a fuel pump dieing.. the bike is an 01 with 20,000km. i just changed the plugs cleaned the filter and tried using gas from 87 octane to 93 and the issue still presists ive checked the battery connections. im lost unless it could be the pump but wouldent i have idle or starting issues if it was the pump?

 

If it pulls fine at redline its not the pump. If it couldn't make enough flow at 10,000rpm why would you think it could move even more fuel for 14k? Also anything above 87 octane actually reduces the burn rate inside the cylinder and makes less power and gas mileage. The only real way to know about the fuel pump is to hook up a fuel pressure gauge and check. Making guesses doesn't help anything and fuel pressure kits are cheap.

 

im just wondering why the pump or w.e is making a weird whining noise and clicky sounds as well sometimes..i dont know much about this **** thats why im trying to figure it out before i get stranded lol. if its whining and sounding louder what do you think it could be and why the power loss between 9-10grand? maybe the trottle cable needs adjustng for the power loss issue but what would make the whining sound? seems like something dieing..would the fpr whine or click at times if it was bad i was thinking about taking off the tank tomorrow and pulling the rubber line off turning the key and seing if it drips? thats the way to check that correct?... just looking for someone to throw me a bone here i spent a bunch of cash on plugs air filter tires ect now this whine is worrying me that there is a bigger issue.. any ideas tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated..noob to the bike mechanics...