Good take-offs on the street:

Yesterday I switched wheels because it seems the spare rear wheel I mounted a GP-A on had a bad bearing or something and went back to my Road 2 (Plus I didn't wanna waste such a good tire) ----- holy **** what a difference ---- Within 5 minutes I was missing that GP-A. Not only was I absolutely loving the ultra-awesome profile and the 190/55 tire size (which bumped my rear up a bit), but I guess I got used to the Dunlop because I was almost immediately having little slides coming out of corners on the street when I didn't even think I was being all that aggressive on the throttle. I dunno if it's because the GP-A's warm up quickly or just because the compound, even when cold, is still that much better than a decent street tire. Also went to a 1/6 throttle when I put the Dunlops on, so that may have something to do with it as well.

1/6 R6 throttle mod:

Totally worth it and super easy to do. All you gotta do is grind out this one little area in the top half of the F4i throttle housing where the cable enters. There is a ramped area that needs to be cut/grinded out (super easy), before the throttle will fit. With stock cables you also WILL HAVE TO get to the engine side of the cables and give them all the slack you can get and even then it's going to be a bitch to get on unless the cables are stretched. My idle was exactly the same, although there is no slack that can be given to the throttle, so if for some reason you like a little play in your throttle, there will be none.

Vesrah RJL pads:

Recently I went from the stock pads to Vesrah RJLs and I gotta say, I'm pretty sure the stockers were working better for me. I mean I am having a nice consistent feel through braking, but it just doesn't feel like the binders are REALLY coming on unless I squeeze really hard. I was able to brake just fine with one finger before and I'm finding myself having to use two to get the same amount of braking. I have tried doing a bunch of consecutive stops to try and heat up the pads and no dice..I have also cleaned the rotors really well. Anyone else running these pads? Do they get A LOT better when really up to temp at the track? Maybe I should take them off again, clean them, scrub the rotors, remount, spray the crap outta them with brake cleaner and try again.


Suspension - Setting sag, fresh oil, and Race Tech springs:

Front suspension feels great. Set my sag around 30mm front, 25mm rear. Ended up going with .95 springs up front and going to a slightly heavier oil (Maxima 15w vs Honda/Showa ss8 10W (which wasn't recommended), but I wanted to increase rebound on the cheap and according to Suspension Fluid - Pvdwiki that chart, the viscosity is only a bit higher. Set the rebound at 3/5 turns from soft and the compression 1/4 turn from soft and everything so far feels good. Rear sag was about right at position 3. Did a 100-120mph turn (moderately) that I knew has a bunch of bumps in it and the suspension never felt bouncy and stuck pretty well throughout the rest of the night. Also the highly decreased dive under the binders is really nice.

1" up and back rearset risers (ebay)

Awesome. Super quality piece of gear. Only downside is the kickstand kinda ends up in a funky spot and if you don't adjust your clutch to the right postition, you will end up catching the kickstand instead of the clutch. Love the fact that you can flip it and get 1" down and forward for long trips.

 

Tire switch- I'll pull my jerk card right away [cant help myself]- no duh the road 2's [a sport touring/milage tire] have worse traction then the GP-A's [a track slick]. Thats like saying you went from an AMA spec motor to a stock one and it feels slower.

Throttle- glad it worked for ya

Pads- Im not totally suprised. Everything I hear on WERA is how awesome the RJL pads are, but those are track only bikes. Im guessing you aren't getting the pads hot enough to make them work properly.

Suspension- You went to .10kg/mm heavier springs then me and didn't do the rebound valves? Im quite amazed they work at all, heavier oil or not. And your compression must be totally f'ed, because I am only 1 turn out from full soft using 10w oil and the mentioned .85kg/mm springs. I weigh 160lbs which might have something to do with it, no idea what you weigh

Risers- I have the same ones I think. Flat aluminum and about $50? I never noticed any kickstand problems, I adjusted them how the instructions said. Do pay attention to the bolts rubbing the swingarm, I had to pry mine with a giant screwdriver/prybar to get clearence. I don't understand why people pay for rearsets when these are availible.

 

Tires: These are DOT tires. Obviously they cannot be compared as they are pretty much exact opposites, but I never thought I'd really notice on the street since they'd never get up to temp. The biggest difference really is the quick turn-in thanks to the profile, but I am also amazed their level of grip even cold.

Pads: Ended up cleaning everything again and now they are working much better.

Suspension: I guess I'll never really know for sure until I can push the front end hard enough (which I'm probably not even capable of), but I figured going with that spring I would want the minimum compression possible and obviously I would need a bunch of rebound. All I wanted was less brake dive which I got, and so far the suspension is not bouncy and feels planted, so I'm happy for now.

Risers: Should be the same ones - Not sure if they changed them at all because they are angled outwards slightly and I have no issues with the swingarm. The issue I have with the kickstand is the knub that sticks out...I like to have my clutch pretty low so maybe that's why.

 

isn't your clutch on your left clip-on?? I'm confused as to how you'd catch your side stand while squeezing your clutch...or even if you were shifting up or down a gear for that matter.

That being said, I'd love to get a set of risers

 

He ment the gear shifter not the clutch lever.