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clutch slipping cause??

  #1  
Old 11-22-2009, 10:10 PM
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Default clutch slipping cause??

ok so my clutch is slipping. its an 04 f4i and its got about 12k on it. but it doesnt slip from a start. from a standstill its fine, even with 2 people, i can hammer it hard and no slip. when im up about 8k rpms and start to try to get it up higher it slips. but itll cruise at 8k all day long. its really weird feeling, it pulls really hard all the way up till 8k then about 8.5k its like i pulled in the clutch. it just falls flat on its face and revs out.

do i need a new clutch? im fine with that, i just would rather not put a new one in if i dont have to. ive read here on the forum that its bad to use car oil. im running mobil 1 5w30 thats what a buddy of mine told me to run, he runs it in his bike with no problems. is my oil the problem?

also on a side note, whats the red Fl light on the gauges. im new to the f4i i thought the light was low fuel but then i filled up and it was still on. the bike runs great, except for the clutch slipping and the batterys crap.
 
  #2  
Old 11-23-2009, 03:17 AM
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If the slipping started after you changed your oil, then that's likely your problem. If it's been ongoing, then you probably need a new clutch. It's posible also that the oil change simply exacerbated the worn disks.
With the FI light, that's a malfunction indicator to your PGM-FI (programed fuel injection). You're going to have to perform a self-diagnosis of you ECM (electronic computer module) to see what codes it gives you. This will help you isolate the problem.
You can download the Service Manual here for free: LINK. It's going to be in Section 5. Although the manual is for '01'/03, it still applies to your '04. With the self-diagnosis, the ECM is going to give you a numerical sequence of blinks. Write down the numbers, and look it up in the book.
 
  #3  
Old 11-23-2009, 04:14 AM
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Mobil 1 is fine to run but you have to make sure it does not say "energy conserving" on it. Generally it's in the circle where the weight is printed. The 'energy conserving' oils have molybdenum in them and the stuff is just bad news for wet clutches.

Typical clutch wear rears it's head in the higher gears at speed first and gradually starts going down the gears. An easy test is to put the bike in 6th gear and while holding the brakes give it some gas and let out the clutch slowly. Should choke down pretty quickly. If it takes some time, or does not choke down at all and you can put money on warn plates and fibers.
 
  #4  
Old 11-24-2009, 10:53 AM
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Default Clutch slip cause?

These guys are right on track. If the fiber plates wear they can't hold oil & that will cause your slip or worn springs also. I bought an 01 929 in Feb 09 & replaced the usual suspects (brakes,clutch,etc) a week after I got it. Put in an EBC "Street Racer" clutch and stiffer springs at that time. Have a little over 13k on that clutch now and for the $ I'm pretty happy. Good luck.
 
  #5  
Old 11-24-2009, 11:18 PM
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thanks for the suggestions. i really appreciate the help. im gonna try putting a new clutch and springs in and seeing if that fixes it here for the break. ill let you know if that fixes it or not. i bet it does.
 
  #6  
Old 11-25-2009, 10:31 AM
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hey i was reading more about this topic and the mobil 1 im using. it is energy conserving, so could the oil be the cause? i will try it, i just want to know what all parts to get so im not all in the middle of things and have to stop. also just fr more info, it happens in any and all gears and just about any speed when its cold. onces its warm it only does it in gears 5 and 6 and when your going fairly quick.
 
  #7  
Old 11-25-2009, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by vangill View Post
hey i was reading more about this topic and the mobil 1 im using. it is energy conserving, so could the oil be the cause? i will try it, i just want to know what all parts to get so im not all in the middle of things and have to stop. also just fr more info, it happens in any and all gears and just about any speed when its cold. onces its warm it only does it in gears 5 and 6 and when your going fairly quick.
energy conserving oil ****s with wet clutches so hard. Drain it immediately and get something non energy conserving in there before you go all out and buy a new clutch.
 
  #8  
Old 11-25-2009, 12:51 PM
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I'm going to be replacing my clutch. Break in period on them? Also, should I stick with OEM, or upgrade?
 
  #9  
Old 11-25-2009, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Zero1080 View Post
I'm going to be replacing my clutch. Break in period on them? Also, should I stick with OEM, or upgrade?

The OEM are fine. Just make sure to soak new fibers in oil (at least an hour and preferably over night), check your steel plates for warping and burning (bluish) and make sure the springs are in spec. If you go with the same steels use some medium grit emery cloth to rough them up a bit and get any glaze off. DON'T sand smooth ... just enough to de-glaze.
 
  #10  
Old 11-25-2009, 02:46 PM
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energy conserving oil ****s with wet clutches so hard. Drain it immediately and get something non energy conserving in there before you go all out and buy a new clutch.
Yep, next time just use Rotella 5W-40 synthetic available by the gallon at Walmart and you'll be fine.
 

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