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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 01:09 AM
  #1  
andrewsi's Avatar
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Default THE CCTL Thread

Now, I have heard that the CCT going bad is a common F4i problem. Most people tend to hear a rattling at some specific RPM, then change the CCT. Since I have owned the bike, I did notice that my bike ran a little rough between 4,500-6,000 rpm, but I thought it was the bike (I have only owned this bike for 6 months). However, my rattling is REALLY noticeable now and at all parts of the rev range. It sounds like their is a rattling sound coming from where the CCT is, but it is not faint like most people have described. It got really loud at a stop light one ride all of a sudden, so I turned the bike off and towed it home.

[ul][*]So, can a shotty Cam Chain Tension Lifter cause a really loud rattling?[*]Also, is there a way to tell that my CCT is shot and the actual problem after I remove it?[*]Finally, I have found directions for changing the CCT if i need to (which I intend to do myself), however it says to put the "crank positioned to TDC #1" before I start. Now I understand what all that stuff is, but I don't know how to set up the crank to that position. Any tutorials or explinations for that as well?[/ul]
 
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Old May 29, 2008 | 10:34 AM
  #2  
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Default RE: Final Answer CCTL

ORIGINAL: patman

Until this is stickied what is the conclusion drawn about manual CCTL vs OEM j23? CCTL? Does the OEM replacement work or not?
I dont know that there is an concrete decision on what to use. I think it is an accepted fact that the OEM unit will fail somewhere approaching 10k miles if not sooner.

I just ordered an APE unit as I would prefer to simply adjust it when necessary as opposed to replacing the OEM unit when it inevitably fails.
 
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Old May 29, 2008 | 11:35 AM
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Default RE: Final Answer CCTL

I have 14xxx miles on mine and havent had any issues with it failing. Yeah it makes the can of bee's noise but it still runs and runs good.
 
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Old May 29, 2008 | 11:46 AM
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Default RE: Final Answer CCTL

replaced mine with oem at 9000 and is still quiet at 16,400
 
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Old May 29, 2008 | 12:18 PM
  #5  
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Default RE: Final Answer CCTL

ORIGINAL: F4Isvt

I have 14xxx miles on mine and havent had any issues with it failing. Yeah it makes the can of bee's noise but it still runs and runs good.
To me the "can of bees noise" is considered failure. I know it generally wont cause a timing/chain jump, but the can of bbs noise is an indication that it needs to be replaced as the tip is loose and possibly unable to maintain tension.
 
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Old May 29, 2008 | 01:21 PM
  #6  
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Default RE: Final Answer CCTL

ORIGINAL: WOT

From what I have read so far the noise isn't failure and isn't causing any harm. Somebody on here was talking about having taken a noisy one out of the bike and finding it's the parts inside rattling and that the pressure is fine. I am chalking it up to being just annoying. When I get time I am giong to throw in another stock one to hopefully shut it up.


There has only been 1 documented issue of actual failure on this forum (and I have been researching like no tomorrow) in which the timing skipped and valves were bent. Otherwise all the "failures" you read about are simply that bolt head vibrating around and being annoying. At what point that annoyance might actually result in bent up valves is up in the air.
 
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Old May 29, 2008 | 09:17 PM
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Default RE: Final Answer CCTL

ORIGINAL: Ace_f4i

if the tensioner goes.. does it mess with the way your bike runs or just make an annoying noise?
Generally its just the "marbles in a can" noise however if the chain has zero tension on it, it potentially could skip and mess up your timing which in turn would make your valves kiss your pistons (thats bad).

As said above, there has only been 1 incident of that happenning on this forum and there are TONS of people who need to replace their tensioner. The noise alone is so annoying to me that its worth the $50 fix.
 
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Old May 29, 2008 | 11:29 PM
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Default RE: Final Answer CCTL

the best place to buy the OEM one, in my opinion would be ........Honda? I bought the part and the labor/installation from honda and it cost me about $160. The part was like $55, but unless your confident enough to pull the fairings, tank, then start screwing with the motor, just let the dealer do it. It's not like we are talking about $500 or $1000 bucks to replace this$50part, if it were that much I may have taken my chances doing it myself. I wish I had the time and knowledge to do it, but for the extra $100, I let honda do it.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 07:36 PM
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Default cct question

alright before u complain abouta cct post i just wanna say i realy didnt fee\l like reading through 1000 post to try and find the answer si now for my question i jus noticed my bike doing this recently but i know my cct is junk because its doing its thing bout 5000 rpms but at a cold idle it almost sounds like my bike has a knockbut its not to loudand it goes away after it gets warmed up atleast i think it does but im not sure because i forget to pay attention and i am not low on oil either...also it seems to have gotten more noticable since it first started doing itso is this a cct sympton?
 
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Old Aug 27, 2008 | 09:40 PM
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Default RE: cct question

To be honest. NO, CCTs are stiffer when cold. Its when its heated up and the oil becomes less viscous does it start to rattle. Usually ccts dont make noise until at high rpm when warmer. If it makes the noise at cold and not when warm i would start looking somewhere else.

Can anyone verify this?
thanks
 
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