argreed with everyone else. you need it tuned. you probably have odd spikes and troughs and your afr is out of whack right now.

 

Okay so it's got -1 on the front...Is that the one that gives me faster launch or whatever = worse mpg than stock?

 

last summer stock mine did 140-150 before reserve i threw a pipe on it and now i get bout 125 wuld a pipe affetc it hat much?

 

A -1 will throw your mpg off. Your bike will ride at higher rpms=bad gas mileage. If you ride around at 7-8K's that will throw off your mpg. If you weigh a lot= bad mpg.

I am 150 lbs with a -1 and I ride around at 7-8k rpms. I get around 25-30 in town and 30-40 on the highways when I do near the speed limit. If I ride at 55 mph on the highway, I get 55 mpg. Slow speed= good gas.

 

wtf!!!! i get like 100 mileson my stock '05 f4i before my reserve light comes on. oh yeah my bike just turned 8k miles yesterday and i'm going to take it in for the 8k mile service next week....hopefully that will make things a little better.

 

Quick question, "tuning" a powercommander is putting the bike on the Dynojet right?

or can it be as simple as plugging it into my laptop and uploading the map onto it? Because Dynojet thing is 100/hr and said at least 3hrs...that's 300 bux. Cost of powercommander to tune the thing? wtf?

 

You can load a base map from their website. Hook up the laptop, plug in the small USB cable, and then load the map from website. There was a base map for my bike that had: K&N air filter, or none, and Devil Exhaust. So find the one with your exhaust and setup, then load it up.
It's best to put the bike on the dyno hooked up to a wideband 02 sensor. That way you can tune the air/fuel ratio per RPM range. You can get about 5whp avg across the RPM range, and sometimes 10+ at certain RPM's. The whole powerband will also feel more liner.
You could do it yourself if you had a way to do a full throttle run with a wideband hooked up, and some way to look at your rpms when doing so. What I did when I had my car was hook up a video camera to watch both the wideband (a/f ratio) and the RPMs at the same time. Then imported to my computer, and watched everything and paused to record the air fuel ratio at all rpms. Then I adjusted the map to correct. The target with my car was about 13.5:1, 13.5 parts air to one part fuel. It's a ghetto dyno. All you need is a camera hooked up, a wideband, and way to watch and graph. LOL!!!

 

You must rod the **** out of your bike to get that crappy of mpg.lol

 

I've been shifting at 7-8k rpm but I started shifting around 5-6k rpm now so I'm hoping to get better mpg.

On the fwy though, when I split between two cars I downshift and punch it so i'm doing like 11k if I think the driver is sketchy. I filled up last night so far I rode 50miles so I will keep you all updated.

Also I want to know whether I can just tune it on my laptop or I must take it to Dynojet facility for 300dollars

 

Take it and have it done by a good tuner.BAse maps are just that BASE..Even if the air fuel is right at 100% throttle ,its the lower throttle postions that really matter.

Had a custom tune borrowed from a buddy for my f4i,air fuel was good.But the bike was night and difference after a dyno tune.Esp in the lower throttle postions.