So after accidently getting larger shims when I actually needed smaller ones, I am going to be putting the top end back together. I am pretty sure that when I put the cams back in that some of the lobes will have pressure on valves, is that right? So if the cams have to depress the valves for me to get things together, whats the procedure to put them back in? I have the clymer manual but I wanted to hear what others have done. Do i just set the cams in and start the bolts and torque them down in the order it says? Do I need to push the cams down so that it makes it easier to install the camshaft keeper (not sure what its called). I havnt read the part on re installation yet.

Also, I need to clean out my cooling system. Should I get some distilled water or can I use tap or hose water? I am going to be switching to engine ice.

Thanks for the read.

 

if its anything like a car, which im sure it is, you have to make sure that cyl. 1 is at TDC.(top dead center). if it is at tdc, there shouldnt be any pressure on the cam, because all the valves are closed.

 

Even if I have secured the chain after breaking it always seems I have to re-time everything when doing valves. If you are absolutely sure nothing has jumped (not even 1 tooth) then you can snug the valve train bolts and then turn the crank to an all closed position (dunno where on your bike, manual is god) and torque everything down.

Then you'll need to verify everything is still in time. Like I said, this is the step where I always end up re-breaking the chain and moving something 1 tooth

EDIT:

Sorry, missed the 2nd part of the question. Water from the hose is fine to flush out the radiator. Can use compressed air to get out the last remnants so your new stuff does not get too diluted. Only problem I have run into on basic flush and fills is air pockets that don't want to dislodge. Gives you some really strange readings on your temp gauge. The way I was shown to get rid of them was to crank up the bike and lean it over both ways as far as possible without dropping. They called it "burping".

 

just go step by step by your manual

did you put your bike at TDC on cylinder 1 before you took out your camshafts?

 

Yeah the cyl one's cam lobes were not depressing any valves when I took out the camshafts.. Do i need a timing light to check the timing? What do you mean you had to break the chain? Is there a masterlink in the camchain? I did mark the chain where the IN and EX marks are on the cam sprockets, so i hope i can just put the chain back the way that it was. The timing is the only thing that I am kind of uncomfortable with. Ive done valves on my KAW but never shim under bucket style.

Can I flush the engine with hose water or should I use distilled for that? I want to try to get as much of the old coolant out of the block as I can.

I also kind of wouldnt mind puttin something in the oil to dillute it a bit so that I can get more of the dirt out. Maybe drain the oil, put in some fresh with sea foam or I hear kerosene works, and just ride it for a minute or let it idle then drian it out then put fresh oil again. Anyone have any experiance with that? Ive used sea foam in my gas but never in oil


Thanks again guys. I actually was gonna start puttin my top end back together, but my cousin just bought a 02 f4i with 5000 some miles for 4400 ish out the door, gotta do the test ride and take it to his house for him.

 

If you disassembled per directions in the manual then you should be o.k. to reassemble like it sits. The timing comes in with lining up the crankshaft position with the cam shafts. All are marked and the manual will have a picture of what to look for. And by breaking the chain I mean had to break the cam chain. No master. But once you get it so far and you're only off by 1 tooth then it is easier to break and re-rivet the chain rather than taking crap apart again.

Prolly not necessary to flush the motor with kerosene unless you got real sludge problems but it won't hurt anything. I did that with my turbo motor because it ran so hot. And water from the hose is fine to flush the radiator.

 

Should I get new spark plug hole O rings and sealing washers for the camshaft keeper as PER the manual?

 

Is this a "what's the correct way" question or a "have you ever skipped this part and it come back to bite you in the butt" question?

I have skipped some of the new bits and pieces part of an installation with no ill effects. All comes down to what the pieces look like. You probably won't go wrong by getting new parts but I won't say I've never reused crush washers, gaskets, o-rings and the like.

 

Yeah, more like a "has it ever bit you in the ***" kind of thing. Ill check out my gaskets before reassembly and put a bit of oil on them if i think theyre okay. If the honder dealer dont have the parts in stock ill skip it. I dont understand why they dont have some parts in stock, you figure they would be common to a few bikes.


Do i have to worry about the throttle bodies and re-synching them?

 

Yes ... sync the TBs. By changing the shims you are affecting air flow so a real good idea to sync it up while everything is apart.