Buying a bike, which bike?
#1
Buying a bike, which bike?
I'm checking out some bikes on craigslist, and wanted to get some opinions on what to get.
The bike I'm most interested right now has 3,000 miles, 2003, ridden by a girl (no offense ladies) spotless, looks pristine. The lady is starting at 500$ over Nada High price, 6,000$ but probably will come down 300-400$, but she's a tough cookie. so 5700$ for a 3,000 mile 2003 bike.
Next contender is 2001 with 19,000 miles, 3700$. going to see that in a few minutes.
Later today ~4pm going to see a 2001 with 6800 miles, has some cosmetic damage, low sided the bike.
Some of them have aftermarket stuff, some don't. I am not even visiting people who say "helmet and jacket included" trying to find the most mature sounding reasonable people, but obviously I worry if some of these bikes have plenty of miles, if they've been running the **** out of them at beach week etc...
Is the nicest bike really worth it? The 19,000 bike comes to around 170$ a month payments @ 9.2% over 2 years, where as the 3,000 mile bike comes to like 270$ a month... is it worth it to get a much nicer/newer bike? I haven't heard any stories of these bikes getting compression leaks or anything on any of thse forums, but how long should I expect this motors to last given worst case scenario beating style driving?
Thanks, Bill
The bike I'm most interested right now has 3,000 miles, 2003, ridden by a girl (no offense ladies) spotless, looks pristine. The lady is starting at 500$ over Nada High price, 6,000$ but probably will come down 300-400$, but she's a tough cookie. so 5700$ for a 3,000 mile 2003 bike.
Next contender is 2001 with 19,000 miles, 3700$. going to see that in a few minutes.
Later today ~4pm going to see a 2001 with 6800 miles, has some cosmetic damage, low sided the bike.
Some of them have aftermarket stuff, some don't. I am not even visiting people who say "helmet and jacket included" trying to find the most mature sounding reasonable people, but obviously I worry if some of these bikes have plenty of miles, if they've been running the **** out of them at beach week etc...
Is the nicest bike really worth it? The 19,000 bike comes to around 170$ a month payments @ 9.2% over 2 years, where as the 3,000 mile bike comes to like 270$ a month... is it worth it to get a much nicer/newer bike? I haven't heard any stories of these bikes getting compression leaks or anything on any of thse forums, but how long should I expect this motors to last given worst case scenario beating style driving?
Thanks, Bill
#2
RE: Buying a bike, which bike?
I would go for lower miles vs. newer bike.
Bikes don't wear out by sitting.
Look at stuff like the condition of the tires, age of the rider, service documentation. If you get one over 16K make sure the valve clearances have been checked. If you find a bike with custom paint, LOOK VERY CLOSE, because it's probably been down regardless of what the owner says.
If the tires are corded, then they may not be real up on maintenance. If they are flat and not worn on the sides, then it may be a commuter, OR they may like burnouts. Look for bits of rubber stuck all over the undertail.
STAY AWAY from any bike that has electrical stuff added unless you are confident in the owners wiring ability. A hacked harness will make your life a living hell.
So I guess you decided the EX500 isn't enough for ya?
Bikes don't wear out by sitting.
Look at stuff like the condition of the tires, age of the rider, service documentation. If you get one over 16K make sure the valve clearances have been checked. If you find a bike with custom paint, LOOK VERY CLOSE, because it's probably been down regardless of what the owner says.
If the tires are corded, then they may not be real up on maintenance. If they are flat and not worn on the sides, then it may be a commuter, OR they may like burnouts. Look for bits of rubber stuck all over the undertail.
STAY AWAY from any bike that has electrical stuff added unless you are confident in the owners wiring ability. A hacked harness will make your life a living hell.
So I guess you decided the EX500 isn't enough for ya?
#3
RE: Buying a bike, which bike?
Yeah, I know, I know, I know... should get more experience under my belt. But once the bug bites, it's hard to wait. Really it's not so much that the ex500 isn't enough for me, as much as it's not really "mine", my wife and I share a bike, and it's going to be sometimes inconvenient. I was following her in the car, and another bike passed her and waved, and I instinctivly waved, and then realized they weren't waving at me, and I knew I wanted to get my own.
I will be going very gingerly in parking lots, and not riding the 600 for commuting until I'm much more confident on it. I am really a reasonable person, and all the reccomendations aren't going unheeded, as much as desire is overshadowing them at this point. I always gear up full tilt, Sidi boots and all whenever I ride, and am under the fear of god about the power of these bikes, so hopefully I will be all right.
Thanks for the advice, I've read over the Used Bike Buying guide, but those were useful than anything I read on the guide. Fork seals need to replaced at around 20k also correct?
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike-content.html
If I were buying a car, I'd know alot more what to look at, as I've done all my own work, know what kind of trinkets people put in their vehicles, signs of engine distress, tranmsision distress etc... But on a bike, it seems you really can't get a compression/leak down test, or test drive. Or that I shouldn't be test driving with my experience.
I will be going very gingerly in parking lots, and not riding the 600 for commuting until I'm much more confident on it. I am really a reasonable person, and all the reccomendations aren't going unheeded, as much as desire is overshadowing them at this point. I always gear up full tilt, Sidi boots and all whenever I ride, and am under the fear of god about the power of these bikes, so hopefully I will be all right.
Thanks for the advice, I've read over the Used Bike Buying guide, but those were useful than anything I read on the guide. Fork seals need to replaced at around 20k also correct?
http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike-content.html
If I were buying a car, I'd know alot more what to look at, as I've done all my own work, know what kind of trinkets people put in their vehicles, signs of engine distress, tranmsision distress etc... But on a bike, it seems you really can't get a compression/leak down test, or test drive. Or that I shouldn't be test driving with my experience.
#4
RE: Buying a bike, which bike?
Fork seals can go out a lot quicker than that if the bike has been stunted. They aren't that bad to replace. If they aren't already leaking, then there isn't much you can tell by looking at them.
I can't remember offhand what the replacement interval is on them.
If you get the F4i and mind what you are doing, you may be OK. Just remember it's what you AREN'T thinking about that will jump up and bite you. Little stuff like Cold Tires kill.
I can't remember offhand what the replacement interval is on them.
If you get the F4i and mind what you are doing, you may be OK. Just remember it's what you AREN'T thinking about that will jump up and bite you. Little stuff like Cold Tires kill.
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