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Bike noob needs to learn, wall of questions

  #1  
Old 09-05-2011, 01:32 PM
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Default Bike noob needs to learn, wall of questions

Hi everyone, so I just got my first bike I will be riding on the street, a 2001 f4i. I had a Seca II before also where I taught my self how to rebuild the carbs successfully.

Ok now this bike I bought has some problems unfortunately and I want to fix them. Let me say that I am advanced with car mechanicals but not so much with motorcycles.

I am not on this forum to get answers and leave, I want to learn and understand this bike so I can contribute as well, so please share what knowledge you have.

First, the bike


ok now some of the issues, I'll start simple:
1) How do you jack this bike up to do fork and chain work?

2) Bike has jardine exahust with no cat, will it need a ecu tune as well or will it run ok?

3) Front right fork is leaking, I want to attempt to fix the seal my self, good idea? Rear might be bad too, refer to pic.

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4) Is it ok to shorten the clutch lever action by using the adjustment on the lever or is there a better way? Same for front brakes

5) Is a vibration at 5k+ rpm normal? engine mount problem maybe? timing chain?

6) When the bike is straight up the oil level is above the top line, should I try to take oil out?

7) Throttle is WAY to sensitive and makes the bike jumpy, is this normal (lack of skill) or can I adjust it?

8) What is this extra wire clip?
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Thank you to all who help.
 
  #2  
Old 09-05-2011, 03:13 PM
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Nice bike Shox and welcome to the Forum !


Enjoy the Forum

woops ..lol
 
  #3  
Old 09-05-2011, 04:55 PM
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1. They make stands for bikes, like these TWO BROTHERS S-1 PRO REAR STAND | MotoSport don't worry, they aren't all $300

2. Our bikes don't have cats

3. The fork seal CAN be fixed yourself. I tried to learn on my dirtbike but never really learned. I had someone do it twice. As much as you'll be doing it on a street bike, its not worth buying the special tools. Just throw $100-150 at someone and get it done

4. You'd be better off getting adjustable levers, you can get them for $60 a pair

5. I have no engine vibration at any rpm really...I'm not sure what's going on with yours. Does it run rough? maybe a tune up or like you said, an engine mount

6. Just to be safe I would try to leak a little out

7. The throttle can be touchy...I've been riding bikes for 8 years so its second nature to me now. Try finding someone that has experience and see what they say? There's really no way to gauge jumpiness

8. I DON'T KNOW!!! I have that same thing, if you find out let me know!
 
  #4  
Old 09-05-2011, 07:47 PM
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1. I have a Pitbull stand. It's awesome. Pit Bull Motorcycle Stands & Accessories: SS Rear Stand (Standard/Spooled) (I use the swing arm side just fine... didn't add spools to the bike)

5. It's probably your cam chain tensioner. https://cbrforum.com/forum/f4i-main-...cct-f4i-94723/
 
  #5  
Old 09-05-2011, 07:50 PM
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btw I am from California so stock they did come with cats.
 
  #6  
Old 09-05-2011, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Honda125 358 View Post
...
3. The fork seal CAN be fixed yourself. I tried to learn on my dirtbike but never really learned. I had someone do it twice. As much as you'll be doing it on a street bike, its not worth buying the special tools. Just throw $100-150 at someone and get it done
Belay that. It will cost more than that to have your Honda shop do this...most likely 2 bills or more. Its not difficult. All you need is a front stand that lifts by the lower triple (in conjunction w/ the bike lifted on a rear stand) & a fork seal driver (43mm). The fork seal driver will be $40 or less. Some people make their own driver from PVC pipe but to me the $40 is well worth the price for no hassle. Everything else is basic hand tools. You'll need the seals & fork fluid (SS8). Since you are competent working w/ tools, you should be able to do this easily. Simply follow the procedure outlined in the factory service manual (links avail here on forum), & you'll be fine.

1)see my ans above
2)should run fine. Most guys I know w/ CA bikes remove all that jazz.
3)see my ans above
4)sure, you can adjust them. Maybe try to get used to them first.
5)need "vibration" better defined.
6)run the bike for a couple of min. Then, let sit for a couple of min. If oil settles to above that line, yes - remove a little bit. Although a little above the line prob wouldn't hurt, just adjust it. Loosen oil nut & let a little out. Takes two min.
7)depends on how you define "way too sensitive". Personally, I like mine sensitive. Again, maybe try to get used to it first.

Good luck w/ everything. Enjoy!
 
  #7  
Old 09-05-2011, 10:05 PM
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The only lifts/jacks I keep finding are this for the rear....


and this for the whole bike.
Will this work on the f4i or it will mess up the exhaust manifold?


If not, can you show me a lift for the front?
 
  #8  
Old 09-05-2011, 10:23 PM
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BTW to any admin/mod, I think my account is in some weird limbo state. I cannot view attached pics people have posted, I cant PM, and all my posts need to be approved..can you take care of this?
 
  #9  
Old 09-06-2011, 02:56 AM
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Congrats on the pick up!

To answer some of your questions, if you feel confident in your mechanical skills, tackle the front fork. The rear shock absorber is pretty easy to swap, but you have to swap the entire unit. (Took me about an hour and a half)

That buzzing is your CCT most likely, and depending on how many miles your bike has, it may need replacing. But a "buzzing" is normal at that range.

You cannot get a full bike lift, you'd have to remove the headers to have any shot at the bike being able to MAYBE balance on the oil pan. It's a risk, and not worth it.
Black TRex Front and Rear Motorcycle Stands Unive That's what I have, and I love them. For the price and slight garage abuse, they're holding up great.

Adjustable levers would be the way to go. They aren't too expensive online, however, just like the throttle, try and get used to them first. The sensitivity is most likely due to your inexperience (no offense of course). I remember I barely wanted to get on the thing when I first got it, now I wish it'd respond even quicker sometimes.

That extra clip is to plug a sensor/code reader and it'll check diagnostics on your bike. No idea how/what is actually done to make that work. Way beyond my realm of knowledge, however that's what it's used for.

The cheapest way I've found to do fork/suspension work, is to use jack stands near the middle of the frame or base of the swingarm. Anything to alleviate weight on them, and something safe enough that unless you run into it full force, it's not going to fall on your when you're working. I know some people have built custom frames to suspend the bike with straps from. All up to you.
 
  #10  
Old 09-06-2011, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 96shox View Post
1) how do you jack this bike up to do fork and chain work?


use stands - get one that goes under the headstock to service the forks

2) bike has jardine exahust with no cat, will it need a ecu tune as well or will it run ok?

should be fine as it is

3) front right fork is leaking, i want to attempt to fix the seal my self, good idea? Rear might be bad too, refer to pic.

not difficult - go for it

4) is it ok to shorten the clutch lever action by using the adjustment on the lever or is there a better way? Same for front brakes

the adjusters adjust the amount of freeplay (clutch) or the reach to the lever (brake). The brake is a matter of choice but if you two finger brake make sure the lever doesn't touch your two non braking fingers or it will get interesting in an emergency. If the lever is set all the way out and the brake lever is still going all the way back or feels spongy, bleed the brakes and check for leaks. Clutch needs about 19mm of freeplay, set it to that and get used to it.

5) is a vibration at 5k+ rpm normal? Engine mount problem maybe? Timing chain?

vibration or lots of noise? Probably the cct if lots of noise, debatable if it is a real problem or just a harmless noisy one - the solution is to remove it and either try cleaning it or replace it.

6) when the bike is straight up the oil level is above the top line, should i try to take oil out?

i would.

7) throttle is way to sensitive and makes the bike jumpy, is this normal (lack of skill) or can i adjust it?

remove the rear wheel and look at the cush drive rubbers, they should fit the sprocket carrier tight and they should be quite soft - they are shock absorbers for your drivetrain, if they are hard and brittle the drive will be twitchy. You can improve them by using slices of bicycle inner tube to pad the gaps out, alternatively replace them. 1st gear is always twitchy on pretty much every bike, especially those with early fuel injection systems. Also check your drive chain is tensioned properly, a loose chain will make this worse.

8) what is this extra wire clip?

a service connector, you need to bridge it with a little bit of wire to check fault codes in the fi system. It is pretty simpe, bridge connection, follow some basic turning key type operations and count the number of blinks of the FI light - unless your FI light comes on there is no need to use this connector.


hth.
 

Last edited by DonnyBrago; 09-06-2011 at 07:23 AM.

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