A) No idea on the can.

B) Yeah, a special socket would work, let us know what you end up with.

C) The Hotbodies flushmounts look spectacular. Follow the instructions on back, nice and easy. A lot of people go with a relay to slow down the flashing, frankly, I prefer it faster. Love mine though.

 

Kowen thanks for the tip, but mine came with a rubber guard that goes all the way around the clamp! Well after everyone's wise words of common sense The pipe fits perfect. The clamp sits tight and it brought the midpipe out a few mm so it is now 2-3mm off the swingarm! It was the muffler rivet that was so close not the midpipe. If you look closely the black exhaust tip housing actually has a magenta tint to it! Looks gorgeous, Im very happy with it

Now to the stripped oil pan bolt. I just sprayed it down with WD40 and will let it sit overnight. I have gathered quite a bit of good tools over the years but go figure none of them metric! Any good set of metric sockets should suffice? While I'm at the store, any other good tools for future maintenance on the F4i?

Ill go to the store in the morning and get the tools and then try and find a Honda dealership thats open and has a replacement oil pan bolt/crush washer and then get back at her!

Regarding turn signals, I just looked at the one nut on the inside fairing that holds the stock signals in place..I assume thats metric too

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...3&blockType=G3

#6 in this set says its 12mm....think I should give em a try?

 

That's one sexy pipe. I wish mine were still that glossy, but of course, thanks previous owner!

That socket set should do just fine. Decent price for Craftsman, too. As for the rest of your sockets, imperial will work alright for some sizes (3/4" = 19.05mm), but you will definitely want metric for others. I just dropped $50 for two socket sets that go from 22mm-36mm. I only needed the 22mm and 27mm, but I couldn't stand paying $8-9 each. Maybe that's why I never have enough money...

 

That pipe issue is solved
For the filter, and if you don't have a vice grip big enough you can use a hammer and a screw driver or thin pointer: from the side of the filter and near the top of it (not close to the the oil cooler!!) you just slightly hammer the screw driver into the filter until it touches the other side of it and you can easily turn it around and take it off.
For the oil pan bolt you just have too use the vice gripe again but don't forget lefty loosy...

 

Yes the oil filter has never been an issue. It initially was but after I got the gripper hammered on there, I got it loose...As of now it is still sitting on there because I only loosened it a bit and wanted to take the drain bolt out first then ran into the stripped issue. SO the slip on and oil filter are not an issue anymore. The issue now is the stripped drain plug. The vice grips are a no go at this point. I am waking up early tomorrow and getting a OEM drain plug replacement and then I'm off to sears to get the Craftsman "Bolt Out" sockets. Ill post up my results!

 

Good to hear that everything is slowly getting resolved! There's nothing worse than going to do a standard job and finding out everything that can go wrong has.

 

Thanks Zero. Ok...today was a good day, Im nearly finished and I got to everything!!! Ill post back in a short while but I have a quick question...I bled and refilled the front calipers via the master cylinder on top of the right handlebar. My question is, I may not get to bleeding and refilling the back brake. Are the two (front and backs) connected? As in do they share the same fluid? My common sense tells me no but I just didnt want the bad old back brake fluid mixing with the front fresh stuff if I dont get to the back brake today. Thanks!

 

no connection and pipe looks great love that tint on the end

 

Front and rear brake systems are completely separate. The rear reservoir is located above the rear brake pedal just below the seat (or follow the black tube that runs along the top right side of the swing arm).