Honda Motorcycle Parts 2001 CBR600F4 AC THROTTLE BODY (TUBING) Diagram

See the pic in the link above.
Mine was blocked at no. 11.

I disconnected it from MAP sensor, and the 5T joint. Then I blew air from my mouth, and feel the flow with my finger at the end. It should flow freely. It could be any of them in your case. Take them apart one by one, and try to blow. just do it when engine is not running

 

Okay so how many of these vacuum lines should I order? They say 3.5x1000 I'm guessing that means they're 1000cm/1m each so I'd need two of them? the link you gave me says I need a ton of it..

 

No, you'll need about 1.6 m only. They'll sell in 1m so yeah you need to buy 2 units if you want to replace all. See the part number, they all showing a same part number so you don't need to order separately. Just order 2 units and cut them yourself.

Anyway, blow test your hoses first, you probably only need to replace 1 section instead of the whole lines.

 

Cool that's what I thought, just wanted to make sure. I might just replace them all lol, then I'll have nice new ones and know they're good. Thanks a bunch!

I'll report back if this fixes it, hopefully it will lol.

 

Okay new vacuum lines didn't do jack. Neither did new spark plugs, which will probably get fouled pretty quickly if I try and ride the bike like it is.

Back to square one, who knows something about the idle unit? Could it have possibly failed thus giving me no autochoke and leading me on a rabbit trail trying to fix other things?

The bike only throws codes when I mess with the specific sensors, so that plus the fact I've replaced the map and everything that goes to it leads me to believe the issue lies elsewhere.

I'll give you guys my symptoms here again, the bike idles low until it warms up to ~170 degrees, then it runs normal. My old plugs were dry fouled. Turning the idle up when its cold doesn't do much, may 100-200 rpms at best and then the bike will idle crazy high once it's warmed up so the idle isn't misadjusted. The FPR tested fine.

 

You said your MAP sensor wasn't meant for this bike? Start from there first. Swap with a friend with F4i MAP sensor.

170F is when thermostat open.

Have you ever synced the throttle bodies? Coolant level OK?

 

I don't think the map sensor is the issue, the stock one and the new one don't make a difference in how it runs. I also don't have any friends with F4is lol.

I'll see what I can find out about the thermostat opening relating to this problem, I figured it was just because the bike was warming up but that might have something to do with it. Coolant level is good though, and the bike never runs excessively hot. It will get up around 200 degrees if I'm moving slow and 225 if I'm sitting in traffic, but once moving it runs around 170-180 depending on how hot it is outside.

Throttle bodies haven't been synced.

Thanks for the help!

 

Okay another little update, done some more work on the bike, still no luck

I adjusted the wax unit, no luck. With the thing pushed all the way in it only idles at about 1200 rpm, from the factory it idles at 3000 rpm and is nowhere near being adjusted all the way in.

Doesn't seem like a failed wax unit, but maybe it's not capable of going in enough? Just doesn't seem likely to me.

Something is making it run like crap when it's cold, up next is a valve adjustment and compression check. If anyone has any more ideas, I'd appreciate it. I'm running out of simple and easy things to check and starting to really dislike this bike

 

Have you tried adjusting the starter valve? This could be the problem if it's too low you will have rough idle.

 

I was under the impression that the starter valves are the little things you adjust when syncing the throttle bodies.