Anyone done much performance work to there bikes?
#22
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: Blackdog F4i
I guess I don't quite understand it.
You get a 600 because they rock in the twisties. Compare a 600 to a 1000 on a twisty backroad and it is the rider that will win it every time.
If you like going fast in a straight line, then get a Superbike or Hypersport. Go ahead and dump a couple grand into a 600, take it to the track and get schooled by a rider who has a lowered and geared 1000 that cost him less than all the mods to your bike. BTW, I forgot to mention that after you have modded the hell out of your 600 you can no longer ride it ont he street because it scrapes on every speed bump and overheats if you stand still for longer than 30 seconds. Now once you are pissed at your bike.....go ahead and try to sell it. See who wants to pay for your "project" bike.
Its your money do what you want. Just make sure you know what you are trying to do.
For me, I will stick with mild mods and spend most of my money on tires, tracktime, and replacing knee sliders.
I guess I don't quite understand it.
You get a 600 because they rock in the twisties. Compare a 600 to a 1000 on a twisty backroad and it is the rider that will win it every time.
If you like going fast in a straight line, then get a Superbike or Hypersport. Go ahead and dump a couple grand into a 600, take it to the track and get schooled by a rider who has a lowered and geared 1000 that cost him less than all the mods to your bike. BTW, I forgot to mention that after you have modded the hell out of your 600 you can no longer ride it ont he street because it scrapes on every speed bump and overheats if you stand still for longer than 30 seconds. Now once you are pissed at your bike.....go ahead and try to sell it. See who wants to pay for your "project" bike.
Its your money do what you want. Just make sure you know what you are trying to do.
For me, I will stick with mild mods and spend most of my money on tires, tracktime, and replacing knee sliders.
#23
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Have you ever seen ANY turbo vehicle (even intercooled) NOT run hotter than an equivalent N/A?
You are adding backpressure to the exhauast. This reduces volumetric efficiency when not under boost. This is turn makes the engine less efficient AND keeps more residual heat in the engine.
As to if it "boils over" that I can't answer because I don't now, nor ever will have a turbo F4i.
You are adding backpressure to the exhauast. This reduces volumetric efficiency when not under boost. This is turn makes the engine less efficient AND keeps more residual heat in the engine.
As to if it "boils over" that I can't answer because I don't now, nor ever will have a turbo F4i.
![Wink](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#24
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: Blackdog F4i
Have you ever seen ANY turbo vehicle (even intercooled) NOT run hotter than an equivalent N/A?
You are adding backpressure to the exhauast. This reduces volumetric efficiency when not under boost. This is turn makes the engine less efficient AND keeps more residual heat in the engine.
As to if it "boils over" that I can't answer because I don't now, nor ever will have a turbo F4i.
Have you ever seen ANY turbo vehicle (even intercooled) NOT run hotter than an equivalent N/A?
You are adding backpressure to the exhauast. This reduces volumetric efficiency when not under boost. This is turn makes the engine less efficient AND keeps more residual heat in the engine.
As to if it "boils over" that I can't answer because I don't now, nor ever will have a turbo F4i.
![Wink](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#25
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Dude, I am not going to get into a internet pissing match with you, but you have some serious misconceptions about turbos.
1. Buying factory turbo cars does not make you a turbo expert. Rebuilding a factory turbo engine with fancy parts also does not make you an expert.
2. The car does run cooler at idle than under boost.....however AS I STATED it runs hotter than it would WITHOUT a turbo. Running a colder thermostat would explain why your car runs cooler.
3. A bigger exhaust pipe will not increase VE.
4. A turbo does not PULL exhaust out of the engine. PULL would indicate that the turbo is causing vacuum in the exhaust manifold. In a turbo motor even at idle the exhaust pressure in the exhaust manifold is greater than the pressure in the downpipe. In fact under boost most street turbo systems have an exhaust manifold pressure of several times what the boost pressure made by the turbo.
5. Even with a 100% efficient charge air cooler (intercooler) you cannot reduce the intake air temp lower than ambient temp. This means that NO MATTER WHAT it is pushing hotter air into the engine than the same motor without a turbo.
6. Cooling systems on small engines are already taxed. Increasing heat in the engine (anything that increases power increases heat) limits the safety margin of the cooling system.
Believe what you want to believe. What I posted above applies to 99% of street turbo systems. Nitromethane and Alcohol fueled cars run under different rules.
Lastly. If you want to prove me wrong. Your turbo F4i and idle it next to a stock F4i in traffic. Which one runs cooler.
1. Buying factory turbo cars does not make you a turbo expert. Rebuilding a factory turbo engine with fancy parts also does not make you an expert.
2. The car does run cooler at idle than under boost.....however AS I STATED it runs hotter than it would WITHOUT a turbo. Running a colder thermostat would explain why your car runs cooler.
3. A bigger exhaust pipe will not increase VE.
4. A turbo does not PULL exhaust out of the engine. PULL would indicate that the turbo is causing vacuum in the exhaust manifold. In a turbo motor even at idle the exhaust pressure in the exhaust manifold is greater than the pressure in the downpipe. In fact under boost most street turbo systems have an exhaust manifold pressure of several times what the boost pressure made by the turbo.
5. Even with a 100% efficient charge air cooler (intercooler) you cannot reduce the intake air temp lower than ambient temp. This means that NO MATTER WHAT it is pushing hotter air into the engine than the same motor without a turbo.
6. Cooling systems on small engines are already taxed. Increasing heat in the engine (anything that increases power increases heat) limits the safety margin of the cooling system.
Believe what you want to believe. What I posted above applies to 99% of street turbo systems. Nitromethane and Alcohol fueled cars run under different rules.
Lastly. If you want to prove me wrong. Your turbo F4i and idle it next to a stock F4i in traffic. Which one runs cooler.
![Wink](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#26
![Default](/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: Blackdog F4i
Dude, I am not going to get into a internet pissing match with you, but you have some serious misconceptions about turbos.
1. Buying factory turbo cars does not make you a turbo expert. Rebuilding a factory turbo engine with fancy parts also does not make you an expert.
2. The car does run cooler at idle than under boost.....however AS I STATED it runs hotter than it would WITHOUT a turbo. Running a colder thermostat would explain why your car runs cooler.
3. A bigger exhaust pipe will not increase VE.
4. A turbo does not PULL exhaust out of the engine. PULL would indicate that the turbo is causing vacuum in the exhaust manifold. In a turbo motor even at idle the exhaust pressure in the exhaust manifold is greater than the pressure in the downpipe. In fact under boost most street turbo systems have an exhaust manifold pressure of several times what the boost pressure made by the turbo.
5. Even with a 100% efficient charge air cooler (intercooler) you cannot reduce the intake air temp lower than ambient temp. This means that NO MATTER WHAT it is pushing hotter air into the engine than the same motor without a turbo.
6. Cooling systems on small engines are already taxed. Increasing heat in the engine (anything that increases power increases heat) limits the safety margin of the cooling system.
Believe what you want to believe. What I posted above applies to 99% of street turbo systems. Nitromethane and Alcohol fueled cars run under different rules.
Lastly. If you want to prove me wrong. Your turbo F4i and idle it next to a stock F4i in traffic. Which one runs cooler.
Dude, I am not going to get into a internet pissing match with you, but you have some serious misconceptions about turbos.
1. Buying factory turbo cars does not make you a turbo expert. Rebuilding a factory turbo engine with fancy parts also does not make you an expert.
2. The car does run cooler at idle than under boost.....however AS I STATED it runs hotter than it would WITHOUT a turbo. Running a colder thermostat would explain why your car runs cooler.
3. A bigger exhaust pipe will not increase VE.
4. A turbo does not PULL exhaust out of the engine. PULL would indicate that the turbo is causing vacuum in the exhaust manifold. In a turbo motor even at idle the exhaust pressure in the exhaust manifold is greater than the pressure in the downpipe. In fact under boost most street turbo systems have an exhaust manifold pressure of several times what the boost pressure made by the turbo.
5. Even with a 100% efficient charge air cooler (intercooler) you cannot reduce the intake air temp lower than ambient temp. This means that NO MATTER WHAT it is pushing hotter air into the engine than the same motor without a turbo.
6. Cooling systems on small engines are already taxed. Increasing heat in the engine (anything that increases power increases heat) limits the safety margin of the cooling system.
Believe what you want to believe. What I posted above applies to 99% of street turbo systems. Nitromethane and Alcohol fueled cars run under different rules.
Lastly. If you want to prove me wrong. Your turbo F4i and idle it next to a stock F4i in traffic. Which one runs cooler.
![Wink](https://cbrforum.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
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cBrentb
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