Are aftermarket pegs essential for track?
#21
03-17-2008, 10:27 AM
RE: Are aftermarket pegs essential for track?
ORIGINAL: Sonomajay
Weighting the outside peg...But wedging your outside knee into the tank and using that to hold on while lowering your body into the inside of the curve is proper body position...
Weighting the outside peg...But wedging your outside knee into the tank and using that to hold on while lowering your body into the inside of the curve is proper body position...
#22
03-17-2008, 11:26 AM
RE: Are aftermarket pegs essential for track?
not a compare/contrast...it's just that you aren't really weighing the outside peg, you're just hooking the outside leg on the tank to hold yourself off and keep weight off the inside peg.
FYI...if your pegs are dragging before your knee and you weigh less than 200 with gear, then you need to get your body positioning right...the knee should be touching before the pegs.
stock F4i isn't sprung very well for anyone over 150-160 or so...if you get springs that match your weight, then your suspension wouldn't compress so much in a turn that you lose ground clearance and flinging you wide. but of course, this means redoing the front and rear suspension, lots of bling. doesn't matter how you try to adjust preload, etc...spring rate doesn'tchange...and that's what you need to match your weight.
if you're serious about track riding, do suspension first...then rearsets/rearset adaptors...otherwise, just go for the rearsets and do the suspension when you start to drag more hard parts...and hope that the soft suspension doesn't get you into trouble.
OG poster...get your bootay out of the bike and hang off like a monkey mang...you should be dragging knee in that shot!
T
FYI...if your pegs are dragging before your knee and you weigh less than 200 with gear, then you need to get your body positioning right...the knee should be touching before the pegs.
stock F4i isn't sprung very well for anyone over 150-160 or so...if you get springs that match your weight, then your suspension wouldn't compress so much in a turn that you lose ground clearance and flinging you wide. but of course, this means redoing the front and rear suspension, lots of bling. doesn't matter how you try to adjust preload, etc...spring rate doesn'tchange...and that's what you need to match your weight.
if you're serious about track riding, do suspension first...then rearsets/rearset adaptors...otherwise, just go for the rearsets and do the suspension when you start to drag more hard parts...and hope that the soft suspension doesn't get you into trouble.
OG poster...get your bootay out of the bike and hang off like a monkey mang...you should be dragging knee in that shot!
T
#23
03-17-2008, 12:17 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Are aftermarket pegs essential for track?
I weigh in right at 200lbs fully geared up. I have .90 springs in the front, havent touched the rearshock yet. I was draggingmy feet all the time, even when up on the ***** of my feet, and draggingthe stock pegs-feelers removed-occasionally on the track, scarring the crap out of myself in the process.
I feel my body position is good, but it can always be better.So I put a set of woodcrafts on last night, and now I have no concerns about touching down the pegs, but I am a little worried about my exhuast.It looks like it will touch down before anything else, even my knee(I only have a 28") inseem. I was going to put the stock can back on for the track, but I think thats probably a bad idea now.
anyone else draggin their cans?
I feel my body position is good, but it can always be better.So I put a set of woodcrafts on last night, and now I have no concerns about touching down the pegs, but I am a little worried about my exhuast.It looks like it will touch down before anything else, even my knee(I only have a 28") inseem. I was going to put the stock can back on for the track, but I think thats probably a bad idea now.
anyone else draggin their cans?
#24
03-17-2008, 12:41 PM
RE: Are aftermarket pegs essential for track?
i dragged my akra midpipe, so i had to reposition the can mout to be inside of the pegs...but this was before i got my penske rear, so in turns my bike was pretty much at full compression...at the time i was probably about 175 fully geared...
so you should look into getting that rear shock set up to your weight. i'm betting that once you do that, you won't be scraping your rearsets for awhile until you get even more agro out on the track.
i haven't dragged knee in like 2 years...first reason is that i just don't ride so much anymore...second...i don't ride so nuts anymore except if at track...which i just haven't had time to go last year...and last...knee pucks are expensive! hahahahha
so you should look into getting that rear shock set up to your weight. i'm betting that once you do that, you won't be scraping your rearsets for awhile until you get even more agro out on the track.
i haven't dragged knee in like 2 years...first reason is that i just don't ride so much anymore...second...i don't ride so nuts anymore except if at track...which i just haven't had time to go last year...and last...knee pucks are expensive! hahahahha
#25
03-17-2008, 12:50 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Are aftermarket pegs essential for track?
thanks, now I have 2 more questions. not to hijack the OP thread, but its in the same topic
1)how did you reposition to the inside of the peg. I assume you just moved the mount to the back instead of the front, and that allowed you to turn the
midpipe a little.( I have the akra as well)
2) about the rear shock, I cant really afford a new complete rear shock, but I thought I read that I can just buy a new spring for the rear factory shock, just like new springs for front? is that possible, or even worth just putting a different rate spring and leaving the factory internals?
1)how did you reposition to the inside of the peg. I assume you just moved the mount to the back instead of the front, and that allowed you to turn the
midpipe a little.( I have the akra as well)
2) about the rear shock, I cant really afford a new complete rear shock, but I thought I read that I can just buy a new spring for the rear factory shock, just like new springs for front? is that possible, or even worth just putting a different rate spring and leaving the factory internals?
#26
03-17-2008, 01:15 PM
RE: Are aftermarket pegs essential for track?
you know that cf mount that holds the pipe to the rear pegs? mine was installed with the big loop part on the outside. i moved it to the inside (backside) of the rear pegs. now it's tighter with the bike and subframe.
do check the clearance of the midpipe and subframe. it may hit with the suspension unloads. no need to worry about when it compresses. i had to add washers to get it just right and keep it there.
yes it's possible to get the stock shock reworked! i actually was considering it but then wife said she'd get me the penske rear so i went with that.
Stig at ppsracing.com was the shop i was going to send the rear shock to, he would respring it to match my weight and also revalve as best he could the stocker.
do check the clearance of the midpipe and subframe. it may hit with the suspension unloads. no need to worry about when it compresses. i had to add washers to get it just right and keep it there.
yes it's possible to get the stock shock reworked! i actually was considering it but then wife said she'd get me the penske rear so i went with that.
Stig at ppsracing.com was the shop i was going to send the rear shock to, he would respring it to match my weight and also revalve as best he could the stocker.
#28
03-17-2008, 01:35 PM
RE: Are aftermarket pegs essential for track?
i think it was in the high 2's....this was back 3 years ago.
i think the best example on this forum as far as the whole rearsets thing is jaybird...he swapped his suspension and stopped dragging pegs, dragged knee and got his riding much better. now he's crazy so he has to go with aftermarket rearsets.
my take is that if you ride aggressively, you'll eventually need them (suspension and rearsets)...but there's a correct order to do them.
T
i think the best example on this forum as far as the whole rearsets thing is jaybird...he swapped his suspension and stopped dragging pegs, dragged knee and got his riding much better. now he's crazy so he has to go with aftermarket rearsets.
my take is that if you ride aggressively, you'll eventually need them (suspension and rearsets)...but there's a correct order to do them.
T
#29
03-18-2008, 01:12 PM
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,505
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Are aftermarket pegs essential for track?
ORIGINAL: Tahoe SC
not a compare/contrast...it's just that you aren't really weighing the outside peg, you're just hooking the outside leg on the tank to hold yourself off and keep weight off the inside peg.
FYI...if your pegs are dragging before your knee and you weigh less than 200 with gear, then you need to get your body positioning right...the knee should be touching before the pegs.
stock F4i isn't sprung very well for anyone over 150-160 or so...if you get springs that match your weight, then your suspension wouldn't compress so much in a turn that you lose ground clearance and flinging you wide. but of course, this means redoing the front and rear suspension, lots of bling. doesn't matter how you try to adjust preload, etc...spring rate doesn'tchange...and that's what you need to match your weight.
if you're serious about track riding, do suspension first...then rearsets/rearset adaptors...otherwise, just go for the rearsets and do the suspension when you start to drag more hard parts...and hope that the soft suspension doesn't get you into trouble.
OG poster...get your bootay out of the bike and hang off like a monkey mang...you should be dragging knee in that shot!
T
not a compare/contrast...it's just that you aren't really weighing the outside peg, you're just hooking the outside leg on the tank to hold yourself off and keep weight off the inside peg.
FYI...if your pegs are dragging before your knee and you weigh less than 200 with gear, then you need to get your body positioning right...the knee should be touching before the pegs.
stock F4i isn't sprung very well for anyone over 150-160 or so...if you get springs that match your weight, then your suspension wouldn't compress so much in a turn that you lose ground clearance and flinging you wide. but of course, this means redoing the front and rear suspension, lots of bling. doesn't matter how you try to adjust preload, etc...spring rate doesn'tchange...and that's what you need to match your weight.
if you're serious about track riding, do suspension first...then rearsets/rearset adaptors...otherwise, just go for the rearsets and do the suspension when you start to drag more hard parts...and hope that the soft suspension doesn't get you into trouble.
OG poster...get your bootay out of the bike and hang off like a monkey mang...you should be dragging knee in that shot!
T
Mike
#30
03-18-2008, 02:30 PM