I lowsided after coming in to the turn too close to the inner edge (didnt use the entire width of the track) and screeching some metal after I tried to lean more to compensate... rear end just slid out smoothly. Last lap of the last session of the day after the checkered flag
I totally agree on the rider training... just wondering if the stock pegs were not set up for track on an F4i.

 

Yup you need to improve your body positioning. I've done the samething b4 at Deal's Gap.

 

of course, you can try to mechanically alter the bike to better fit your style of riding... not everyone hangs off as much others. However, i would first work on your body positioning before trying to mess with the bike. I know my local MC shop has pegs that fold up and have the bottoms tapered. They are suppose to help but i haven't tried them.

good luck!

 

IMHO, the F4i isn't that bad on ground clearance when cornering...

This ismy (back then)stock F4i, with the hero blobs removed from the pegs, at max lean.

Check the stock exhaust on the second picture.

[IMG]local://upfiles/19022/86BC6FDC6F8D412DB2D775C8F52EB94D.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/19022/97E9508673A84E72ADE6E51A8B5F89BF.jpg[/IMG]

 

^^^ thats incredible...... i want to learn to push my F4i like that..... i should deff. get signed up for some courses.....

 

I would also highly recommend having yoursuspension set up for your weight and riding styleby a pro if you haven't already. It costs ~$40 and will be the best money you ever spent. Stock the F4i suspension is set VERY soft, so when you are riding aggressively the suspension will be compressed, the bike will belower to the ground, and the pegs will drag sooner.

 

The F4i is built for this don't be afraid to push it, the stock suspension performs very well when adjusted to the rider's weight...

I do recommend leaving the hero blobs on the pegs until you get to know the bike and its handling a little more...

Have fun

btw, there are riders out there who push the F4i's even more...

 

How come some people say DO put your weight on the outside peg and some say you're not supposed to? Which is it?!

 

Good point, the main thing is to lower your center of gravity to the inside of the curve. Weighting the outside peg stands the bike up, improving contact patch size, suspension travel and ground clearance. But wedging your outside knee into the tank and using that to hold on while lowering your body into the inside of the curve is proper body position and doesnt require any particular weighting of the outside peg.

Some riders turn "crossed up". In a left turn, their body center of gravity is actually on top of the bike or even on the outside of the turn. They lean the bike by pushing the handlebars down, away from the body. They rub hard parts and take the tire to the limits of the traction bands without getting any speed out of it. That rider needs to stand the bike up, and bring his body mass down on the inside of the turn.

 

Damn preview didn't work, now I have to type this again...

I have pegs very similar to these:

edit: image removed

Notice they are tapered. I replaced the stock ones with these after a high-side broke the right one off

Since I never thought about the suspension setup...
I am 165 lbs on the stock suspension set at: [ul][*]Rear Preload = 1[*]Rear compression and rebound at max[*]Front Preload = stock-ish[*]Front compression and rebound at max[/ul]It's not tweaked by any means, just what I'm used to. Just adding the suspension setup before I state that when I drag a knee, I don't have issues with scraping toes, pegs, or whatever...yet. But without ever seeing my body position and bike lean form third person, I couldn't tell you if it's the pegs, body position, or the lean angles that keep me from scratching more than the knee.

I run Pilot Powers: [ul][*]200 kPa rear cold[*]220 kPa front cold[/ul]