Excuse any of my ignorance relating to this forum. I have no clue what I’m doing.

so I was given a wrecked 2004 600 f4i and I have pulled the motor from. I would like to use it for a kart or a racing mower, haven’t quite decided. Some of the wire were pretty mangled, the gauges (not sure proper term) were missing, both the throttle side and clutch side assemblies were destroyed along with the light assembly. The rear harness for the light seemed to be put together by a crack head. I believe I have a the important stuff though Except I did unplug a few things to get the engine out with the wires and thought I marked everything to reconnect it all but honestly I am a little retarded. Just seems like there is a lot of plugs what should be connected to something lol.

OK to my main question. I need to find out how to make this easy for me and what is needed and what is not and what needs to be bypassed how to bypass it is there a forum someone can point me too? And or is there a place I can buy a bare bones harness? would it be easier to make my own harness at this point? I hate tracing wire and feel like it would be easier to start a new one.

again thank you for any help and info that you can give me and sorry if this topic is getting old and annoying to the old timers here

 

Greetings & Salutations!!

Unless you buy brand-new factory OEM harness from authorised Honda dealer, any harness you get will be used and possibly worse than yours. And every single wire will need to be tested to verify it's good and functional. For that effort, might as well test harness you have now.


Here's new harness if you don't want to test
https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dl...40?shipper=usa

However, there's no getting around tracing wires from end to end. That's needed to adapt harness from bike-frame to kart. Some circuits will need to be carried over like starter, ignition, ECU, injectors, etc. While others will be removed like turn-signals, brakes, etc. Getting new harness will be wasting 75% of it as you'll be throwing most of it away.

1. What you need to do is design everything on paper 1st starting with clean sheets of factory wiring diagram. Such as what I did with Ninja 250. Then trace with highlight markers important circuits you want to keep



2. then trim it down and remove all excess unnecessary wiring. I started this on paper napkin over lunch, then transferred over to graph paper later. Using modern computers and software, can be done before lunch is over. I used an automotive ignition-switch to combine functions of ign-switch, kill-switch and start-button into one unit.



3. Next step is to trace on real harness, the circuits you want to keep. And separate ones you don't want and cut them out. I ended up removing 2.5-lbs from 4-lb harness. Kept it in case I ever wanted to put bike back together for sale.




4. if you've got broken wires (non-conductive when tested), or cut wires, or wires needing to be extended, be sure to join ends to be good-as-new with proper westen-union/linesman knot, solder and adhesive heat-shrink tubing. It's done this way in pro-motorsports (MotoGP/F1), military and aerospace application for performance, reliability and durability. No need to pre-tin thicker wires, too difficult to tie.

 

Thank you for your greetings and your post. Just hearing that has made me more optimistic about it. Using a automation ignition sounds like a great idea. I am dreading reading the diagram, hopefully I can find one that is color coded, that could help me some. This motor is fuel injected and has a lot of sensors I believe, from the little I have read there seems to be a lot of bypassing that is needed, possibly connecting some of those wires I don’t need together for that to function? And possibly actually need the instrument cluster for everything to work correctly? It would be lovely if I could just cut everything I don’t need like you suggested. But enough knowledge pouring my way eventually I will understand it all and what to do. Thanks again!

 

Here's F4i wiring-diagram with lights blanked out to get you started. Look up how to bypass kickstand & clutch switches. I think that's really about it as far as reducing wiring goes. You can get it running like that first, then unplug clocks and see if it runs without it. Probably will. The earlier models had speed-related circuit in clocks that turned on fuel-pump full-time at higher-speeds. But I think F4i pump runs full-time anytime engine is running anyway. So you may be able to remove clocks.

 

Oh sweet thank you. That diagram will help a bunch! What are the “clocks” you speak of?

 

Ah sorry, clocks = dash

 

Ah ok. Alright think I’m gonna dive into it thanks again

 

So I got everything connected where it should minus the lights and what not. Have everything bypassed that should be I believe. Think I might have to figure out something for the key and ignition because I’m getting nothing with a battery connected and everything

 

Welp…it starts!! You guys knocked it out the park I’d look at that mess of wires and it would change my brain chemistry instantly and I didn’t want to try so thank you so much for sharing those resources with me. It was exactly what I needed

 

Yay, awesome work!!