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2002 F4i no fuel after R/R Failure

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  #21  
Old 04-27-2017, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 74demon
Did you unplug the ecu and put a fuse in it?

If it's fried, it's because of the shorted wire. You still need to find the cause of that and fix it.
I think I might be getting a little closer to narrowing the problem down! It's a lot to explain so I made a quick YouTube video. https://youtu.be/13NIHu_-SWI

Only thing that i realized after is that wiggling the connector doesn't make the FI light go away, it was just plugged in loosely at the connector. The other thing is that disconnecting the black connector from the ecu makes the FI light go away.
 
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Old 04-29-2017, 10:57 AM
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Alright. I tested my ecu in another f4i and exact same thing. As soon as you press the kill switch the fuel pump fuse blows. So I definitely need an ecu. Should I take the rest of the harnesses apart and check for more shorts? I don't really want to take apart anymore than I have to. Do you think it was a short that fried my ecu or the R/R failing and sending 40-50VAC to my whole bike...

Gonna go into the honda dealership today and explain I'm not very happy that their less than a year old part fried my ecu.
 
  #23  
Old 04-29-2017, 01:39 PM
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Did you ever unplug your ecu and see if the fuse still blows?
 
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Old 04-29-2017, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 74demon
Did you ever unplug your ecu and see if the fuse still blows?
Yup. Fuse doesn't blow, when I hit the kill switch you just hear the relay click. As soon as I plug in the ecu it blows the fuse. Is it safe to say that the ecu is the culprit and I can replace it safely ?
 
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Old 04-29-2017, 06:46 PM
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Alright, got the new ecu and the bike runs! No more blown fuses.

Although I went to see what voltage I was getting from my stator and I couldn't pick up anyrhing. I measured resistance ​​​​​between the three leads and get 0 for all of them. Time for a new stator as well?
 
  #26  
Old 04-29-2017, 08:02 PM
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0 resistance is good. OL is bad. 0 resistance to ground is bad.

if your running voltage is good, then everything should be good to go.
 
  #27  
Old 04-29-2017, 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 74demon
0 resistance is good. OL is bad. 0 resistance to ground is bad.

if your running voltage is good, then everything should be good to go.
Ok. What's the best way to test running voltage?

Meter in volts AC and then move the leads between the three prongs on the stator? I've heard that you have to rev the bike to about 5k to get a proper reading.

Edit: where is the ground on the stator? I only see three yellow prongs. Is the stator grounded to the frame?
 
  #28  
Old 04-29-2017, 11:31 PM
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just take a running voltage reading on the battery.

if you want to take an ohm reading on the stator, bike off.... The ground is the motor, or anything metal really. You don't want to see a connection between the wires and ground.
 
  #29  
Old 04-30-2017, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 74demon
just take a running voltage reading on the battery.

if you want to take an ohm reading on the stator, bike off.... The ground is the motor, or anything metal really. You don't want to see a connection between the wires and ground.
Alright, I'm still waiting for my replacement​ R/R and I need to get a new battery but I'll test the out once I get everything back together, my guess is that it's probably fine. Other than that my problem is solved! Thanks a million demon, I learned a hell of a lot through troubleshooting and I'm happy as ever to have the bike back up and running.

Ride safe
 
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