Alright I'll download the wiring diagram, that's easy enough to find online. So basically I find a ground on the bike and run my ohmmeter through the ground on the circuit I'm testing ? So if I was to test the harness I already took off with the fuel pump and ignition relay, I'd just ground one of my multimeter probes to the frame and put the other one throughout all the other pins in that harness? Sorry if I'm being repetitive, I just want to understand it fully before I do it. Then repeat for everything that relates to the fuel pump and kill switch ?

The wires coming from the stator (three yellow ones) were ok, but the wires going from the R/R to the wiring harness were a bit melted in the plastic connector. The mental inside the plastic connecter got hot and melted inside the housing. It didn't look too bad though.



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you want to check for continuity to ground on the circuit that isn't supposed to have any.

 

​​​​​​Alright so I started testing things and when I was looking around I found that the red connecter that goes to the main fuse is melted in the casing.. when I trace this on my wiring diagram it shows that the red wire in that connecter goes to the ignition switch. I've been skimming thru forums and there's a lot of talk about a diode in the ignition that could cause the bike no to start if it burns out. Could this cause my fuel pump fuse to blow if the diode is toast? What's the best way to test the diode if I can't put any power to the bike?

Thanks again for all your help so far demon.

 

The resistor in the ignition switch is a security feature that reduces voltage to do fire up the computer. Your problem exists elsewhere.

 

Ok, I'll rule that out for now. But what I did find is that when I try to measure continuity from the red wire in the main fuse harness, to the red wire that goes to the ignition switch there is no continuity. On the diagram it definitely looks like that red wire on the main fuse connecter makes its way to the ignition switch connector. So I should be able to find continuity when I measure between the two, right?

 

difficult to answer without looking at the diagram. But if it shows a direct shot to the switch, then yes. An open wire won't blow a fuse. Does that wire have continuity to ground?

 

Hmm. I don't believe that it's a direct shot to the switch, it tees off to the cluster on the diagram. There's no continuity to ground when I tested it. Do you think it would be a good idea to try and find another f4i to put my ecm in and see if it blows the fuse?

 

just unplug it and put a fuse in. See if it blows....
I would be using a breaker instead of fuses for testing. Just to save fuses

 

Alright, I've taken all the fairings off the bike and exposed all of the wiring harnesses. Tested all of them visually and also for short to ground with my multimeter. Fuel pump fuse is still blowing. So I tried to give the fuel pump direct power and start the bike. And, nothing. It just keeps cranking.

The more I get into this, the more it looks like I have a fried ecu. One of my mutual friends has an f4i so I'm going to test my ecu in it on Friday, I'll report back with what happens.

 

Did you unplug the ecu and put a fuse in it?

If it's fried, it's because of the shorted wire. You still need to find the cause of that and fix it.